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ice belays climbing
Abalakoff thread
The Abalakoff (or Abalakov) thread is an extremely useful anchor for ice climbing stances and is often used for abseils.
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ice belays climbing
1- Locate a section of compact ice and, with an ice screw, drill a hole horizontally and at roughly 45 degrees compared to the surface of the ice (sideways). Now drill a second hole that joins the first at its deepest point.
ice belays climbing
1- Remove the ice screw, thread a belay rope (min. 8 mm) into one end and place the Abalakoff hooker into the other to extract the rope. Tie the two ends together to form an anchor ready for the belay or abseil.
ice belays climbing
1- The distance between the two holes should be roughly as long as the ice screws (about 20cm). Compact ice holds about 12 Kn, but this rapidly diminishes if the distance between the ice screws is reduced.
Semi-mobile ice screw belay
Threaded belay (Abalakoff)
Gear required:
 2 ice screws
 1 8mm abseil rope
 1 Abalakoff hooker
 If the ice quality is deemed not perfect, construct two Abalakoff belays not far from each other and thread the abseil rope into both.
 The Abalakoff thread can also be used as a belay stance but must be used in conjunction with a 9mm rope and connected to a single ice screw using a sling tied off with two overhand knots, as described previously.
ice belays climbing
Climbing at the Gole di San Biagio
photo Alberto Boscolo
 The information published here is not complete. Please refer to the Mountain Guides' technical manual.
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