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Semi-mobile ice screw belay |
Given its functionality, safety and speed of construction, the semi-mobile ice screw belay is definitely the reference belay for ice climbs. |
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1- The ice screws should be positioned almost vertically one above the other, and no closer than 30cm, so as to create an acute angle. Place screw gate carabiners into the ice screw eyelets and connect these with a sling, which must have two overhand knots tied close to the V-point of the belay. |
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2- Twist the upper section of the sling and place a screwgate carabiner into this loop. Use this carabiner for your belay.
An acute angled belay distributes the weight ideally onto both anchors, as shown in the drawing above. |
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3, 4 - Photos 3-4-5 show how the weight is distributed with wider angles. |
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5- Belays with angles wider than 90 degrees are definitely not recommended. |
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