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Colatoio Camillo Zorzi - Val d’Ansiei

First ascent: Marco Cabbia, Raffaele Gennari, Francesco Lamo 24/01/2010
By: Francesco Lamo
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sorapiss, Peak: Val d’Ansiei, Height: 1400m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Fascinating drip wedged into a narrow gully, located 80m to the right of Cascata Superbowl with which it shares the first pitch. The climb is dedicated to Camillo Zorzi from Cogollo del Cengio, a hunter from the Vicenza pre-Alps who recently of leukaemia.


From Cortina take the SR 48 towards Misurina and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, at the fork bear right for Auronzo. Park the car shortly afterwards at Hotel Cristallo.


From Hotel Cristallo walk into Val Sorapiss along path No. 217 with leads to Rifugio Vandelli. After circa 45 minutes the obvious drip Superbowl springs into view on the right (hydrographic left). Scramble up the slope with difficulty to reach the base (circa 70 minutes).


P1: Climb the first pitch of Superbowl, ideally on the right, for 35m to the ledge (ice belay).
P2: traverse right for 60m along the obvious ledge hugging close to the rocks (possible pro on the pine tree) to reach the narrow gully (ice belay).
P3: Ascend the gully, climbing past a very steep narrow section to belay on the right (75°, one short 90° section, 30m);
P4: Continue up steep ice and exit where the angle eases off (ice belay, 80°, 90°, 35m);
P5: Climb a steep wall and then continue up the snowy slope to a niche (80° at the start, then easy snow slope 30m);
P6: From the niche the gully narrows briefly, then becomes steeper to belay in a narrow, final niche (80° close to the top, 25m).


Three  abalakov abseils lead to the bottom of the drip. From here anther Abalakov abseil diagonally left leads to a ledge. traverse along this to the first belay of Superbowl, from here another Abalakov abseil leads to the base of this route.


Full ice climbing rack


Check the weather forecast and avalanche bulletin prior to your ascent and carefully asses the access conditions and the snow slopes above the drip.

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COMMENTS for the route "Colatoio Camillo Zorzi"

12-02-2010, enrico
ripetuto 2 settimane fa. itineraio molto bello, soprattutto per l'ambiente, e per la tranquillità della vallata (Val d’Ansiei). da consigliare.
Details / Icefall

stella stella stella stella stella


III, 4




140m (first pitch shared with Superbowl)

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