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Goulotte Bournier Vogler - Aiguille du Midi

First ascent: François Bournier, Romain Vogler, 11/05/1980
By: Elio Bonfanti
Area: Western Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Aiguille du Midi, Height: 3600m, Country: France, Region: Haute-Savoie

Easy ascent at altitude. The fast approach and easy return render this an ideal climb to get to know the area.


From Chamonix take the cable car up to Aiguille du Midi.


From the cable car cross the passerelle above the Cunningham Couloir (also called Passerelle) and locate the first abseil point on the other side which leads almost all the way down into the gully. Another 4 abseils and some easy down climbing (40°) leads to the start of the gully. Alternatively, leave the Cosmiques refuge and descend via 4 abseils from the first pre-summit on the Cosmiques crest.


P1: Circa 60m 70° gully.
P2: Short 80° section followed by an easy 50° slope to the  bolt belay. 50m
P3: Climb diagonally right 50°/55° for circa 50m to a bolt belay.
P4: Climb directly left for circa 60m up the easy 50° slope to the final belay.
P5: From here there are two exits up mixed terrain. The left-hand side of the gully is the easier option.


From the top of the route traverse east along the Cosmiques crest, climbing as best possible past the various gendarmes to reach the cable car and panorama terrace in circa 30-35 minutes. Alternatively, head west along the crest to reach the Cosmiques hut.


Some ice screws (some short ones conditions depending) plus some camming devices. 0,5 - 0,75 - 1 Camalot recommended.


Neige Glace et Mixte Tome 2

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