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Village (Candela del Gipeto Alceste)

First ascent: G.Ongaro & M.Galli 1997
By: Mario Sertori
Area: Central Alps, Group: Livigno Alps, Height: 2000m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardia

Great free-standing drip, equip the belay in the niche where the drip originates from.


From Milan drive to Lecco and then Colico along the SS 36, then continue along the SS 38 to Bormio. From here take the SS 301 towards Livigno and the Foscagno Pass 2291 m.The Forcola pass which connects Valle di Livigno with Valle di Poschiavo is open from May to November only.


As for Ci Cozz. 70/80m to the left of the base of the first pitch of Ci Cozz, a drip forms in a niche directly beneath the overhanging rockface. At the start of the season this slender drip is splendid and extremely photogenic.


Abseil descent.


Map route 5

Beware: in January the Lammergeier that fly freely through the no-tax area are highly busy reproducing . This isn't always as delightful as some might think, and after the first tender loving phase the eggs have to be deposited and kept warm, on a bed of twigs and feathers, while temperatures drop well below zero. These bird of prey tend not to mix in with human affairs, but a climber may well frighten off its prey or disturb the birds while they are guarding their offspring, rendering them helpless and hungry. For this reason the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio has decided to forbid access to this climb in January. Alceste, the bird of prey that lives here, highly recommends you stay clear of their home during the reproduction period, and I definitely agree with him. There are plenty of other icefalls to choose from. Furthermore, the park rangers keep a watchful eye for any suspicious behaviour and the fines are high. For detailed information concact the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio or the Comando del Corpo Forestale dello Stato di Livigno tel. 0342 - 997128.


Guidabook: Cascate. Alpi Centrali, Lombardia e Svizzera by Mario Sertori.
Map: Switzerland 1:25000 f.1258 La Stretta and f.1238 Piz Quattervals; Kompass 1:50.000 sheet n. 96 Bormio Livigno.

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