Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowIce arrowItineraries arrowIllogika

Illogika - Monte Nero di Presanella

First ascent: Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon 27/11/2020
By: Planetmountain.com
Area: Central Alps, Group: Adamello - Presanella, Peak: Monte Nero di Presanella, Height: 3344m, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

The mixed climb Illogika takes a line to the left of Couloir dell’H on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella). An old peg was found on pitch 2, at present it is unclear whether it belongs to an old attempt or to a summer route. According to initial research it seems to belongs to the route established in July 1964 by S. Calzà, G. Emanuelli and R. Mandelli.

According to the first ascensionists 'We progressed easily, pro was sufficient. We climbed across open terrain and up fantastic gullies. The 4th pitch was perhaps the most difficult, it started with a leftwards traverse towards the icy slabs, then continued up a fairly steep gully for a few meters that didn’t accept much pro (we recommend you place a good peg here!).

Pitch 5 proved a bit spicy, too, even if the protection was somewhat better; after a long traverse right in continued up a narrow, vertical gully with excellent ice. Towards the end of the pitch it continued rightwards to a corner, past some frozen turf that reminded me of my origins in the Spanish Pyrenees.

The climb continued up other beautiful pitches, always up frozen gullies. We were even spoiled for choice, just like last year on the north face of Monte Pelf in the Dolomites! At the end we joined the north ridge of Monte Nero, from here we climbed one more pitch on easy mixed terrain to the summit at 3344m.'

DESCENT

Descend by abseil via  Diretta solitudine or reach, just before the last pitch, the col exit of Couloir dell’H, then follow the recommended descent of this route. In order to repeat IllogiKa you’ll need a set of Cams up to blue BD (2 x medium sizes), 3-4 pegs and slings for the spikes.

NOTES

Most of the pitches were 60 meters long. We left a peg on the traverse on pitch 4 and several slings on spikes, used for protection or for belays.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Illogika"

No comments found for Illogika

Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

M5 AI4+, III

FACE

NE

LENGTH

560m

LINK ZONE

Read main article

LINK

www.dolomismo.com

SEARCH Icefalls

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer