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La Piccola Sgualdrina

First ascent: Francesco Fazzi, Matteo Pilon 01/2019
By: Francesco Fazzi, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Zoldo Dolomites, Peak: Val Pramper - Val di Zoldo, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

La Piccola Sgualdrina is a mixed climb in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. "All things considered I believe this route become a classic mixed outing, never trivial but not too difficult either. The line changes continuously throughout the season, making it fun and different on each occasion. It’s for the repeaters to judge, but we believe La Piccola Sgualdrina , The Little Slut, is a truly unique line!"

GETTING THERE

Reach Forno di Zoldo.

ACCESS

As for Gran Dama. From Forno di Zoldo continnue in to Val Pramper. If conditions permit, the large parking lot can be reached from where one can see Muro del Pianto. Cross the valley floor towards the “wailing wall”, walk past this on your left and ascend a scree slope for 300m. The icefall is clearly visible from the riverbed. The logical line runs parallel, to the left of the main dri. 30 minutes from the parking lot, 90 minutes from Forno.

ROUTE

P1: follow the easy ramp to the left of the icefall and belay on ice at the base of a recessed column below a roof (35m, WI4)
P2: breach the roof and head towards the bolt, then continue straight towards the thin sliver of ice. Where this ends, traverse right for a couple of meters and reach the ledge and belay under the roof; useful cam TCU or C3 size #1 (25m, M8, WI5)
P3: continue behind the pillar and climb this at the height of the bolt. Continue on ice to the belay on the left (20m, M5, WI4)
P4: climb the first column to its end, then traverse rightwards past rock and ice to reach the icy ledge. Very exposed belay, with bolt just behind the arête. This bolt does not modify Gran Dama in any way. It is possible to add pro to the belay to make it more comfortable (15m, M6, WI5)
P5: shared with Gran Dama. Breach the last short step, they follow the final ramp to exit at the top of the icefall (35m, WI4)
Note: the grades refer to the first ascent in thin ice conditions.

DESCENT

As for Gran Dama. 2 abseils (50m 60m). Every belay is equipped for the abseils.

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DIFFICULTY

M8 WI5 III

LENGTH

130m

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