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Pelmoon - Monte Pelmo

First ascent: 07/01/2019 Daniele Geremia, Enrico Geremia, Fabrizio della Rossa; 16/01/2019 Enrico Geremia, Fabrizio della Rossa
By: Enrico Geremia, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Pelmo, Peak: Monte Pelmo, Height: 2000m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Mixed climb up the north of the Pelmo, established over 2 days. Pelmoon starts up the obvious gully to the right of Forca rossa gully. A bolt on the right gully wall has been placed at the start of the difficulties. The first 300 meters follow easy snow gullies past some mixed terrain and Alpine Ice. The route continues up the logical line of thin ice. All pegs were left in-situ (even if some are not very good). After the fourth difficult pitch it is advisable to take the righthand branch and continue up the line of ice (insitu a belay bolt used during the descent). All belays are equipped with 1 bolt for the descent.

ACCESS

From the Rifugio Citta di Fiume car park, ascend the slopes below the north face of Pelmo and head towards Forca Rossa (the classic ski mountaineering itinerary). The route starts in the obvious snow gully before the entrance to the Forca Rossa col.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. All belays are equipped with 1 bolt for the descent.

GEAR

2 x 60m half ropes, a set of Totem cam, double set for mid-sizes. We also used a 3 BD, take rock pegs to back up the pro along the route, some small ice screws (12cm) and some mid-size ice screws

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

M7, AI5, WI5

FACE

North

LENGTH

800m

PDF

Pelmoon

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GROUP

Peak

Route

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