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Sonnentanz

First ascent: Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayer 07/12/2018
By: Daniel Ladurner
Area: Dolomites, Group: Val Gardena-Vallunga, Peak: Langental, Country: Italy

Mixed route that climbs through the big cave to the left of lluminati. Three pitches of water ice are followed by a mixed pitch which, protected by 6 bolts, breaches the grotto. A further two ice pitches lead to the top.

GETTING THERE

Coming from the south, exit the A22 motorway after Bolzano at Val Gardena. Drive up the beautiful valley, passing Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva di Val Gardena. At a junction, follow signs for Vallunga and after a few kilometers the road ends near the start of the cross country piste; follow this into the valley.

ACCESS

From the car park at 1650m, ascend through the valley for about 40 minutes until the drip appears on the hydrographic right (hydrographic right of Mystera - Illuminati). Scramble up the gully to reach the base of the route. Calculate 2 h.

ROUTE

P1:50m WI4+ belay on ice
P2: 55m WI4 belay on ice
P3: 60m WI5+ sosta su spit
P4: 30m M7+ WI5+ belay on bolt
P5: 30m WI5 belay on ice
P6: 35m WI4 belay on ice

DESCENT

Abseil down the route
1. From the last belay on the tree to the bolted belay at the top of the mixed pitch, 55m
2. From the bolted belay to the belay at the start of the mixed pitch, 20m
3. From the belay to the tree, 40m, or scramble down
4. From the tree directly down to the next tree, 50m
5. From the tree all the way down to the base of the route, 60m, beware!

GEAR

12 ice screws, quickdraws, 2 ropes x 60m

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DIFFICULTY

WI5+ M7+

LENGTH

260 m

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