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Chloë -

First ascent: Ezio Marlier, Thomas Scalise Meynet, Roger Bovard on 15/12/2015
By: Thomas Scalise Meynet
Area: Western Alps, Group: Adamello - Presanella, Height: 2540m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Extremely beautiful icefall, climbed without bolts or pegs. The dry tooling section can be protected well with friends and nuts. Once again the Cogne valley has provided amazing new excitement.

GETTING THERE

Take the A5 motorway and exit at Aosta Ovest, then continue towards the Cogne valley and reach Cogne.

Continue towards Lillaz up to a roundabout with a mine cart in the middle. Turn left and continue to the hamlet of Gimilian. At the end of this hamlet on the right there is a bridge, park close to this and  cross the small stream. From here a private road leads into the valley of Grauson (bridge on the right).

ACCESS

After the hamlet of Gimillan head towards the houses at "Pila", up the valley and following river Grauson. Shortly before reaching the houses the icefall springs into view on the left (approach 1 - 1.5 hours, depending on snow conditions). Scramble up the 200m gully, angled 30-35° to reach the ice drips.

ROUTE

P1: Easy 25m pitch leads to the base of the main column. Ice belay at the base of the icefall Oceano Polare.
P2: The first 6-7m column can be protected with ice screws, the M6 mixed section is protected with trad gear (friend # 0.5 and nuts) then reach out onto the drip above (20m) and continue up this to where it ends. Traverse 10m to the right and finish up Oceano Polare. Bolted belay at the top on the left.

DESCENT

One 60m abseil down the route leads to the base of the icefall.

GEAR

Normal ice climbing rack. Two 60m ropes. 9 small and medium ice screws, friends #0.3 #0.5, set of nuts, pegs

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

M6 WI 4 II

FACE

North/West

LENGTH

100m

LINK ZONE

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GROUP

Peak

Route

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The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
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