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La Strega + Evolution - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena

First ascent: La Strega: Cristoforo Groaz, Giovanni Groaz 06/01/1992. Evolution: Wolfgang Hell, Pavol Rajcan 15/03/2014
By: Wolfgang Hell, Pavol Rajcan
Area: Dolomites, Group: Val Gardena-Vallunga, Peak: Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts. The first pitches that lead to the roof were climbed for the first time in 1992 by the brothers Cristoforo and Giovanni Groaz, who called the icefall La Strega. In 2014 Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan climbed through the roof and called their pitch Evolution. This then traverses right to reach the icefall La Piovra.


From Selva in Val Gardena reach the Val Lunga.


Walk up the valley and reach the base of La Piovra. Evolution starts immediately to the left


L1: WI 4+, 40m. Beautiful, relatively easy climbing up ice wedged in between the rocks.
L2: WI 5+, 20m. Beautiful pitch, small traverses right up vertical ice.
L3: M9+, 15m. Overhanging, friable rock leads to the curtain. We climbed the drip on the right. 3 pegs left in-situ were placed along the first 10m; the rock doesn't accept trad pro.
L4: WI 3, 25m. Traverse right to reach the source that feeds the La Piovra icefall.


Abseil using the rappel stations on  La Piovra

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