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Attraverso Travenanzes - Tofane

First ascent: Probabile first ascent: Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini, 16/02/2013
By: Beppe Ballico
Area: Dolomites, Group: Val Travenanzes, Peak: Tofane, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

This icefall is located in the Supermario sector. The lower section of the route forms frequently while the upper drip formed and touched down thanks to the abundant rainfall in autumn 2012. This is a great journey past hanging drips and should only be climbed when the conditions are perfect.


From Cortina take the road which leads towards Cimabanche.


Park the car at the first hairpin bend on the road that leads from Cortina to Cimabanche. Reach the valley on skis or on foot: enter the forest, reach the cross country piste and then enter the Fanes valley and follow signs for Val Travenanzes. (2 hours circa).


1. A first vertical wall leads to a cave. 55 m, 90°85°, ice belay.

2.Climb the vertical column, breach the slightly overhanging   exit and reach the ledge. Continue left past the Transtravenanzes  drip (if formed) to reach the base of the next pitch. 35 m, 90°95° followed by easy traverse, ice belay.

3. Beautiful, short pitch which leads to the final drip. 15 m, 90°, Rock belay (1 peg with sling)

4. Climb the short drip, formed by two overhanging, delicate sheets of ice. 50 m, 90°95° followed by snow slope, ice belay.


Recommended abseil descent using the bolted abseil on Via del Pilone to the right of Attraverso Travenanzes.


Full ice climbing rack

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120m (155m length)


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