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Sfasciacarrozze - Castello di Vallesinella

First ascent: Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali, 27/12/2012
By: Massimo Faletti, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Brenta Dolomites, Peak: Castello di Vallesinella, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

Difficult mixed climb established ground-up over three days, completed on 27/12/2012. According to Faletti the line is "a great journey, highly selective. Far harder than all my other routes."


P1: 35m/40m, M7. Vertical slab, in-situ bong, nut and thread close to the ice. Comfortable belay on ledge, 2 bolts.
P2: 35m, M7. Alternate climbing with ice axes and without; climb ice, the crack to the right to reach an in-situ nut. Boulder crux with dyno, then continue up the crack, leftwards, past a peg to the bolt belay.
P3: 35m/40m, M6. Climb straight up, sale dritti, poi a sinistra e di nuova a destra, filtro prima della sosta. Sosta a spit
P4: 35m/40m, M6. Hard moves, then thin ice, nut and peg in-situ. Close to the belay use the chain of the sports route and a bolt. There are more threads, but climb the crack to the upper ledge. Peg belay above this.
P5: Traverse left, thread.
P6: 30m, M7. Ascend the chimney, exit up vertical terrain to the right. Peg on the left of the drip, then continue directly up. Abseil belay at the cornice.

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WI 6+, M7





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