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Vernel Gully - Marmolada - Vernel

First ascent: Tommaso Cardelli, Cristian Dallapozza on 15/12/2010
By: Tommaso Cardelli
Area: Dolomites, Group: Valle di Fassa, Peak: Marmolada - Vernel, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

A great gully set in a quiet and beautiful environment which is reminiscent of the gullies in the Western Alps, more than the classic icefalls in the Dolomites. The route alternates vertical ice, short snow patches and mixed sections which at times are hard to protect. In some sections the ice is very thin and pro can be found on the rock nearby.


Reach Pian Trevisan at the Fedaia Pass.


Park the car at the start of the road which leads to the quarry “Sevis” at Pian Trevisan (Passo Fedaia) and continue towards the buttress located beneath the Gran Vernel. Head directly to the obvious corner and gully on the right-hand side of the wall. Walk-in: 25 minutes.


Tree abseil on the upper section, then Abalakov.


Full ice climbing rack. Short ice screws, nuts, camming devices #0,75-1-2-3 BD

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