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    Farewell to Cesare Maestri
    20.01.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

    Farewell to Cesare Maestri

    Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.



    Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet
    19.01.2021 by Simon Chatelan in Alpinism

    Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet

    On the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet have established the mixed climb Narsil (M10 WI5+). Chatelan reports.

    Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen
    18.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen

    Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja has reported that he climbed K2 in winter without the use of supplementary oxygen.

    Sorejina at Sennesspitze in the Dolomites climbed by Manuel and Simon Gietl
    18.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Sorejina at Sennesspitze in the Dolomites climbed by Manuel and Simon Gietl

    South Tyrolean alpinists Simon and Manuel Gietl have added a new mixed climb to Sennesspitze (Muntejela de Sénes) in the Dolomites by establishing Sorejina (WI5+, M6, 50°, 700m).

    K2, all 10 summiters of historic first winter ascent safely back in base camp
    17.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    K2, all 10 summiters of historic first winter ascent safely back in base camp

    All ten Nepalese mountaineers who climbed K2 for the first time in winter yesterday have returned safely to base camp. The news was announced by expedition leader Chhang Dawa Sherpa.

    Sergi Mingote perishes on K2
    16.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Sergi Mingote perishes on K2

    Spanish mountaineer Sergi Mingote died earlier today while descending from K2. The Catalan mountaineer was descending from Camp 1 to Advanced Base Camp when he fell to his death.

    K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
    16.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent

    Today, Saturday 16 January 2021 at 16:58 local time, a team of 10 Nepalese mountaineers completed the highly coveted first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world and the last 8000er to be climbed in the coldest season. News of the successful summit was provided by Chhang Dawa Sherpa from K2 Base Camp. The climbers who summited are: Nirmal Purja, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Mingma G, Dawa Tenjin Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa and Sona Sherpa.

    K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
    15.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest

    The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with Camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.



    Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites
    14.01.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

    Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites

    Etienne Bernard, the 27-year-old ski instructor, mountain guide and mountaineer from Val di Fassa, perished in an avalanche yesterday on Mount Pordoi (Dolomites, Italy).

    K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
    14.01.2021 by Stefan Nestler in Alpinism

    K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?

    German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.

    Video: Dave Macleod winter climbing in Scotland
    12.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Video: Dave Macleod winter climbing in Scotland

    The video of Dave Macleod making the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, followed by two other first winter ascents in the Glen Coe area of Scotland.

    Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
    12.01.2021 by Pemba Sharwa Sherpa in Alpinism

    Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team

    The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting insight into the life of the young Sherpa.

    K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
    11.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2

    The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed before in winter.

    Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
    09.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks

    The video of the Swiss expedition comprised of Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist to Patagonia in November 2019. The alpinists made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet via Homenaje a los amigos perdidos, named in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker.

    Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
    08.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl

    On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.

    Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
    02.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher

    Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.

    K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
    31.12.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude

    K2 winter update: diverse teams of mountaineers are attempting the first winter ascent of K2, the only 8000er never climbed before in the coldest season. The Nepalese teams led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa joined forces at altitude and have fixed ropes almost to Camp 3.



    New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
    30.12.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath

    Climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath, Greg Boswell has established False Penance, another bold new winter climb to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe in Scotland.

    New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
    26.12.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland

    On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.

    Video: Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva climbing El Flechazo up Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
    25.12.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Video: Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva climbing El Flechazo up Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia

    The video of the first ascent of El Flechazo on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia, established by Belgian mountaineers Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll in February 2020 with two bivouacs.

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