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    Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
    23.09.2020 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

    Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away

    Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary Nepalese mountaineer nicknamed Snow Leopard and famous for having climbed Everest 10 times without the use of supplementary oxygen between 1983 and 1996, passed away yesterday at 72.


    Punta Dufour, new cross placed on highest mountain in Monte Rosa massif
    19.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Punta Dufour, new cross placed on highest mountain in Monte Rosa massif

    The video of the new cross on Punta Dufour, at 4634 meters in altitude the highest mountain in the Monte Rosa massif.

    Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
    17.09.2020 by Guide del Cervino in Alpinism

    Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible

    The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.

    Monte Rosa Capanna Margherita end of season timelapse
    16.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Monte Rosa Capanna Margherita end of season timelapse

    The time-lapse from Capanna Margherita on Monte Rosa. This is the last video of 2020, since the highest mountain hut in the Alps has now closed its summer season.

    Cinque Torri flash mob in protest against new infrastructure in the Dolomites
    05.09.2020 by Andrea Benesso in Environment

    Cinque Torri flash mob in protest against new infrastructure in the Dolomites

    The press release concerning a 'mountaineering' flash mob that took place on 03/40/2020 on the Cinque Torri (Cortina, Dolomites) in protest against new ski lifts and constructions in the Dolomites.

    Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
    21.08.2020 by Federica Mingolla in Alpinism

    Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto

    Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto who lost his life during the descent. Mingolla and Gheza report.

    Symon Welfringer completes spicy month in Mont Blanc massif
    18.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Symon Welfringer completes spicy month in Mont Blanc massif

    French mountaineer Symon Welfringer has had a productive July and August in the Mont Blanc massif which includes a single day, all-free ascent of Manitua on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses.

    Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
    16.08.2020 by Leonardo Gheza in Alpinism

    Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney

    Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces in the Alps.

    Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
    14.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc

    Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.

    Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
    12.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs

    Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman and Rakaposhi by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima.

    Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
    08.08.2020 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

    Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses

    Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

    Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
    07.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey

    Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.

    Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier
    06.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Environment

    Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier

    The video by Bertrand Delpierre illustrating the retreat of the Mer de Glace glacier in the Mont Blanc massif.

    Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
    05.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua

    Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

    Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto
    01.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto

    Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of Mont Blanc. The so-called Super Integrale de Peutèrey, or Frêney trilogy, was climbed in 1982 by the great Italian mountaineer Renato Casarotto alone and in winter during an epic ascent that has gone down in the history of mountaineering as one of the all-time greatest climbs.

    Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
    23.07.2020 by Claude Gardien in Alpinism

    Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award

    
French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.

    Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
    21.07.2020 by Federica Mingolla in Alpinism

    Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard

    Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. Mingolla repeated the route a few hours after having climbed the historic Ratti - Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey with Lorenzo Pernigotti.

    Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
    19.07.2020 by Jérôme Sullivan in Alpinism

    Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède

    French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.

    Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti

    Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti

    Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was carried out on 8 July 2020 by the trio with fellow mountain guide Isaie Maquignaz on 08/07/2020.

    Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
    14.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg

    On 8 July 2020 the two Swiss mountaineers Adrian Zurbrügg and Nicolas Hojac completed the spectacular traverse of the 18 mountains in the Monte Rosa massif above 4000 meters in just 13 hours and 39 minutes.

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