Spantik Peak

Makalu 2001


Cruz del Sur

Patagonia by water


Pamir Alay


Panorami 360°
Location: Hunza Valley, Pakistan
Objective: Golden Pillar, Spantik 7028m. one of the finest and hardest mountains in the world.

- Introduction
- Expedition
- Details
- Map
- Chronology
21 Arrival at Islamabad.
22 Islamabad — Chilas.
Minibus down the "Karakoram Highway"
23 Minibus along the Indo da Chilas river to Gilgit and Karimabad and continnuation via jeep to Hoppar.
24 Trekking along the Barpu glacier to Phari Phari at 3600m.
25 Trekking to base camp at 4600m.
26 — 28 Acclimatisation climb near base camp.
29 — 30 Rest and gear preparation.
31 Climb snowy spur to 5300m with bivouac.
1 Acclimatisation on descent route to 6200m and descent to 6200m.
2 — 6 Rest and preparation for ascent. 60cm fresh snow at BC.
7 Both teams leave BC and climb to top of snow slope. It snows during the afternoon and night.
8 It snows throughout the next two days.
9 Unstable weather in the morning. The international team decides to descend to BC. The Russians continue their climb.
10 - 11 Rest and preparation for next ascent.
12 New attempt. The international team reclimbs the first section and fixes two pitches on the headwall.
13 The four climbers start at 4.00am and finish at 7.00pm. They climb 12 pitches and bivouac on the wall.
14 The four climbers climb another 12 pitches and bivouac beneath the top of the pillar.
15 Two more pitches lead to the summit plateau. They reach the summit at 14.00 local time. They descend to the start of the snowy descent spur.
16 Descent to BC, while the Russians traverse right to meet up with the final pitches of the English route. They then climb to the summit plateau.
17 The Russians bivouac on the summit plateau just short of the summit.
18 The Russians reach the summit at 6.00am local time and descend. They bivouac once more during the descent.
19 Clean up BC. The international team descends to Hoppar and then to Karimabad.
20 The Russians arrrive at Hoppar and descend to Karimabad.
21 Minibus along the "Karakoram Highway" from Karimabad to Besham.
22 Besham — Islamabad.
23 — 26 Islamabad, formalities.
27 Return home.
Spantik, Pakistan
Spantik and the Golden Pillar.

Spantik, Golden Pillar, Pakistan
The Golden Pillar

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