On May 29, 60 years ago Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary stood on top of the world for the first time ever. Since then Everest has continued to be a symbol, hovering somewhere between a legend and "consumerism". By Erminio Ferrari.
We briefly talked with Simone Moro, currently at Everest Base Camp after he, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith were attacked at 7200m on their way to Camp 3 on Everest. Here is his account of this incredible, terrifying incident which will require time to understand and comprehend.
On 27/4/2013 Simone Moro, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith were attacked by a group of Sherpa while climbing to acclimatise at Camp 3 on Everest. The aggression continued at Camp 2.
On 3 March 2013 British alpinist Jon Griffith soloed the three North Faces in the Argentière basin in the Mont Blanc massif: Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes.
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for the coming future.
The 1st International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will be completed with the final thesis and diploma at the Insubria University. This project, unique and innovative, came to life as a real challenge and involved 14 doctors from all of Italy, combining technical ability with hands on experience and mountain culture. An experience which will continue in May 2013 with the 2nd edition, as course director Doctor Luigi Festi reveals.
Interview by Ellade Ossola with Samuel Anthamatten, the Swiss freerider and alpinist, on the eve of the Evolution Vertical event organized by New Rock and scheduled to take place in Lugano, Switzerland on Friday 9 November.
The second edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award will take place on 6 July 2012 at Selva di Val Gardena in the Italian Dolomites. The alpinists nominated for this award are Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards for the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, Sean Villanueva, Ben Ditto, Nicolas Favresse and Olivier Favressee for their Greenland Big Walls and Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya for their new route up Great Trango Tower in Pakistan.
Interview with the American climber Emily Harrington who reached the top of Everest on 25 May 2012
The report of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who on 18 May 2012 reached the summit of Everest along with Tenji Sherpa. We have published the account in its entirety as this provides insight into the crowds present during this pre-monsoon season, the job of the Sherpa and what it means to climb the world's highest mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen. Even for an absolute ace alpinist such as Ueli Steck.
On Saturday 19 May 2012 three alpinists - a German, a Canadian and a Korean - lost their lives on the South Face of Everest, in part due to a sudden storm. Another two alpinists are reported missing, while other alpinists in difficulty were rescued by helicopter from Camp 2. The first successful summit bids were carried out on Friday and included the talented Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck.
Interview with Simone Moro, currently at Everest Base Camp preparing to ascend Everest and Lhotse in a single push while still finding the time to co-ordinate and take part in helicopter rescues.
A short video filmed by Jon Griffith about Ueli Steck explaining, and showing, his love for climbing.
The video of Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith on the Voie Lesueur, Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.
David Lama has made quick repeats of Stoamanndl 8b and Donnervogel 8b, first ascended by Alexander Huber, a few months after making the first repeat of Paciencia 8a on the North Face of the Eiger.
On 27/09/2011 the Swiss alpinists Patrick Aufdenblatten and Michael Lerjen-Demjen climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn via the Bonatti Diretissima (ED+ 1200m) in 7 hours 14 minutes.
The thoughts for Walter Bonatti which PlanetMountain received from the alpinists...
The 59th Trento Film Festival takes place from 28 April to 8 May to celebrate mountains, society, cinema and literature. Numerous mountaineering personalities gather in Italy's Trento including Messner, Herzog, Bonatti, Mazeaud, Erri De Luca, Mauro Corona, Neri Marcoré, Enrico Brizzi and Mario Brunello.
The video of Ueli Steck and his speed ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet