The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22 September 2020.
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.
Slovenia’s Luka Lindič and Germany’s Fabian Buhl have established Sau hladno!, a new mixed climb up Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites.
Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013
Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013.
Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).
On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.
The Italian alpine guides Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas Franchini have climbed Huascarán Norte, the highest mountain in Peru, as part of their Los Picos 6500 project which aims to climb the 16 highest peaks of the South American Andes.
The first part of Los Picos 6500 expedition comprised of Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini has now come to an end. The Italian alpinists have climbed 13 of the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes and the final three will be attempted when weather conditions improve in Peru in September.
The Los Picos 6500 expedition comprised of Italian alpinists Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini continues at a rapid pace and the trio has now climbed 7 of the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes.
Los Picos 6500, first summits climbed in the Andes by Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
In the Andes the Italian alpinists Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini have successfully climbed the first three mountains of the Los Picos 6500 project. The aim is to climb the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes in circa 60 days and shortly after their arrival they ascended Aconcagua, Tupungato and Mercedario. They will be accompanied by their friend and fellow mountaineer Michele Leonardi.
After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of the West Face of Mount Edgar (Franchini, solo), the first ascent of the NW Face and a repeat of the original route first ascended in 2003 by a Korean expedition.
An Italian expedition comprised of François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai has successfully climbed Mount Edgar (6618m) in the Sichuan region of China. Climbing in two teams, they repeated the original Korean route and established a new line up the West Face.
On 22/05/2017 Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini repeated King of the Bongo, the route first climbed in 2014 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera.
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
Alpinism: from 8 - 9 June 2016 the Italian alpinists Nicola Binelli, Luca Cornella, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini climbed the virgin East Pillar of Kishtwar Shivling in the Indian Himalaya.
On 2 June 2015 Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini made the first ascent of La Divina Providencia, a new 650m mixed route with difficulties up to M7 on the West Face of Nevado Churup (5495m), Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
41 alpinists have been selected for the "Big List” of the Grignetta d'Oro, the Italian mountaineering award that goes to the Italian mountaineer whose climbs in 2013 and 2014 have most left their mark. The award will be celebrated on Friday 22 May at Lecco.