From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.
Big wall climbing: interview with South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher who last autumn, together with Barbara Zangerl made the third free ascent of Free Zodiac up the SE Face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster on nearby Ogre II.
After 5 days on the wall Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl made a free ascent of the Zodiac, the historic big wall climb on the southeast face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Climbing news from Yosemite: Katharina Saurwein has repeated Final Frontier, while on El Capitan Jorg Verhoeven is attempting Dihedral Wall and Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl are trying their luck at the free version of The Zodiac.
On Hoher Göll in the Berchtesgadener Alps, German rock climber and alpinist Ines Papert has repeated Scaramouche (300m, 8a), a rarely repeated climb put up by the Huber brothers in 1989.
On 31 August 2016 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek made the second free ascent of the difficult Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
The search and rescue efforts have been called off for Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, the American alpinists last seen on Monday, August 22, 2016 on the North Face of Ogre 2, Pakistan.
On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll wall and the first ascent of via Degli studenti up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) by the Italians Giorgio Travaglia, Alex Walpoth, Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth.
The trailer of the Alpine Wall Tour, carried out by Polish climbers Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek on five difficult rock climbs in the Alps: End of Silence (Berchtesgaden Alps) Silbergeier (Rätikon), Des Kaisers neue Kleider (Wilder Kaiser) Brento Centro (Monte Brento), Bellavista (Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites)
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
Jacopo Larcher talks about his first climbing trip to Yosemite Valley, USA with Barbara Zangerl, during which they repeated El Nino (5.13c, 800m) on El Capitan and other granite big wall climbs.
The video of Emily Harrington climbing Golden Gate, El Capitan, Yosemite valley, USA.
On 28 and 29 June 2015 Polish climbers Lukasz Dudek and Jacek Matuszek repeated Brento Centro (8b, 600m), the route first climbed by David Lama and Jorg Verhoeven up Monte Brento, Valle del Sarca, Italy
American climbers Mason Earle and Brad Gobright have made the first free ascent of The Heart Route, the big wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, first climbed by Chuck Kroger and Scott Davis in 1970.
The video of Belgian alpinist Sean Villanueva documenting the so-called ‘International Olympic Games of Campo Bridwell’, held below Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 2006.
The video of the attempt carried out by Thomas Huber, Andi Schnarf and Tommy Aguilo to complete the Torre Traverse in Patagonia via the mountains Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre.
Jorg Verhoeven, Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Libby Sauter, Chantel Astorga, Quinn Brett, Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall are all in Yosemite currently attempting their projects on El Capitan...
The video of Roger Schäli and David Hefti and their repeat of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
German climbers Tobias Wolf and Thomas Hering have made rare repeats of two difficult routes on El Capitan in Yosemite: The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) and El Nino.