The 5th Karl Unterkircher Award was awarded on 14 July 2018 in Selva di Val Gardena, Italy to Simone Moro who, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, carried out the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in February 2016. The other climbers that had been nominated Ines Papert and Luka Lindič for their new route on Kyzyl Asker in Kyrgyzstan (China), and Simon Gietl and Marcel Schenk for the new mixed climb up Pizzo Badile in Switzerland.
This morning American climbers Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell set another speed record on The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite. This time the duo broke the legendary 2-hour barrier, climbing the big wall route in 1:58:07.
Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell have broken the speed record on The Nose once again, climbing the iconic big wall on El Capitan Yosemite in 2:01:50. In other news, on 2 June the two well-known rock climbers Jason Wells and Tim Klein lost their lives on El Capitan.
American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold have set a new speed record on The Nose, climbing El Capitan in Yosemite in 2:10:15.
On July 14, 2018 Selva di Val Gardena will host the fifth edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award in memory of the South Tyrolean alpinist who died ten years ago on Nanga Parbat. The alpinists nominated for the 2018 award are Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon for the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, Ines Papert and Luka Lindič for their new route up Kyzyl Asker in Kyrgyzstan (China), and Simon Gietl and Marcel Schenk for the new mixed climb up Pizzo Badile in Switzerland. Special guest: Kurt Diemberger
Dolomites La Strada on Cima Grande di Lavaredo repeated by Simon Gietl, Thomas Huber, Rainer Treppte
Simon Gietl, Thomas Huber and Rainer Treppte have made what is likely to be the first repeat of La Strada, the route up Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites first ascended by Polish climbers Piotr Edelman and Jan Fijalkowski on 6 and 7 August 1980.
The time-lapse documentary of the record-breaking speed ascent of The Nose up El Capitan in Yosemite, climbed in 2:19:44 on 21 October 2017 by Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright.
The video the first ascent of ‘Har Har Mahadev’ up the NW Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6155 m), established in October 2017 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Julian Zanker.
An all-star expedition comprised of American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, Savannah Cumins, Alex Honnold, Anna Pfaff, Cedar Wright and the cameraman Pablo Durana is currently in Queen Maud Land in Antarctica where various members have managed to establish a flurry of new rock climbs.
A video documenting a part of the amazing ascent carried out by Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright as they set a new speed record on The Nose, El Capitan,Yosemite on 21 October 2017 when they climbed the route in 2:19:44.
On 14 October 2017 German alpinist Thomas Huber and the Swissmen Stephan Siegrist and Julian Zanker made the first ascent of ‘Har Har Mahadev’, a new climb up the NW Face of Cerro Kishtwar. This is only the 4th ascent of the 6155 m peak located in the Indian Himalaya.
Interview with American climber Jim Reynolds who on 21 October 2017 teamed up with Brad Gobright to speed climb The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 2:19:44. In doing so they beat the previous speed record set in 2012 by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by almost four minutes.
Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.
27-year-old Hayden Kennedy and his girlfriend Inge Perkins have lost their lives. Kennedy was considered one of the leading climbers of his generation.
On 2 August 2017 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek carried out the second repeat of Project Fear (8c, 550 m) up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Rock climbing beyond the limits: thoughts about the scope of Alex Honnold's recent free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan (Yosemite).
American rock climber Alex Honnold has made a free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite. In doing so he has become the first person to climb El Capitan without ropes.
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.