Sport climbing in Corsica: the best summer crags to climb in the shade and avoid the sweltering heat. By Thierry Souchard and Maurizio Oviglia
Up the Sa Costa ‘e Aidu rock face at Baunei in Sardinia, Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu have made the first ascent of Atlantide, 400 meters of plaisir climbing with difficulties up to 6a+.
Sport climbing in Sardinia: two new sectors have been developed at Pedra Longa, financed by the Municipality of Baunei and bolted by Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras.
Maurizio Oviglia reports about an expedition of the Italian Alpine Club and the JTB (Jordan Tourism Board) which resulted in series of new climbs in the unexplored area of Wadi Sulam in Jordan. Expedition members included Maurizio Giordani, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Andrea Cattarossi, Marco Scagnetto, Luca Schiera, Umberto Del Vecchio, Erik Lazarus, Gianluca Cavalli, Marcello Sanguineti, Angelo Taddei, Alberto Rampini and Lorella Franceschini.
Between autumn 2017 and spring 2018 Giovanni Manconi and Maurizio Oviglia established Passavamo sulla terra leggeri, a new rock climb on Punta Cusidore, a mountain considered by many as one of the most important 'alpine' peaks in Sardinia.
Basque brothers Iker and Eneko Pou have made the first ascent of Agar, a new multi-pitch rock climb in the Taghia Gorge (High Atlas massif) in Morocco in memory of Borja Ayed.
The crag Rocca Miloro in Val di Susa, Piedmont, Italy, introduced by Maurizio Oviglia. Little known, this offers about twenty routes up to 7c + and interesting climbing on beautiful gneiss.
The climbing video of Mauro Calibani interpreting Batman, a spectacular trad climb in Sardinia.
A climbing video by Sara Oviglia and the information about Piazzetta Sottovento, a new sector at the splendid crag Cala Usai at Villasimìus in Southern Sardinia.
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Astroman on the East Face of Washington Column, one of the most famous rock climbs in Yosemite Valley and the world.
On 6/12/2017 young Italian climber Riccardo Moretti redpointed Grandi Gesti at Sperlonga, one of the reference 9a sport climbs in Central Italy. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
In this video by Sky Survey System and Alberto Masala discover the magical climbing as it dances between the cobalt sea and Sardinia’s deep blue skies. The set is Mediterraneo, the multi-pitch rock climb first ascended in 1996 up the fantastic Punta Giradili by Maurizio Oviglia, Mario Ogliengo and Patrick Raspo.
Two climbers, unknown and beautiful, reach the top of Aguglia di Goloritzè, the splendid limestone needle in Sardinia. A moment of pure joy high above the turquoise sea of the Gulf of Orosei.
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Cuba, a new sports climbing crag in SE Sardinia.
Filippo Manca talks about his bouldering trip to America where, in Yosemite, he managed to repeat the legendary Midnight Lightning boulder problem. Moments later he encountered American climbing legend Ron Kauk who, in 1978, made the first ascent of what has transformed into one of the most famous boulder problems in the world.
New rockfall has taken place on the SE Face of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley (USA). The video filmed by Maurizio Oviglia from Middle Cathedral Rock.
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in Physics laureate will be at Arco on 25 August 2017 in order to receive the award Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil during the Arco Rock Legends 2017. By Maurizio Oviglia.
The latest trad climbs at Monte Limbara on the North of Sardinia, first ascended by Maurizio Oviglia and Filippo Manca. Oviglia provides the report.
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the new crag Coa ‘e Littu at Lula in Barbagia, the mountainous region of central Sardinia.
The video by Maurizio Oviglia and Paolo Contini documenting Roberto Vigiani's onsight ascent of the famous crack climb Tai Chi, at Su Sussiu, Ulassai, Sardinia.