On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out from 6 - 7 January 2018, the Czech mountaineers climbed alpine style for 33 hours, breached difficulties up to M4/WI5+, 95° and crossed four individual summits. Holeček, who climbed a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 m) in 2017, provides the report.
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden; Cerro Riso Patron (Chile) by France's Jerome Sullivan, Lise Billon and Antoine Moineville and Argentina's Diego Simari; Cerro Kishtwar (India) by the Slovenes Marko Prezlj and Urban Novak, America's Hayden Kennedy and France's Manu Pellissier. The 24th edition will also award Polish alpinist Wojciech Kurtyka with the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award.
From 18 - 25 October 2015 the Ukrainian mountaineers Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin made the first ascent of the NNW spur of Talung (7349m) in the Kangchenjunga region of Nepal. The 2350m long new route has been called Daddy Magnum Force and graded M6, AI6, A3 overall route difficulty ED2.
The Piolets d'Or 2014 was assigned this evening in Courmayeur to two ascents: the NW Face of K6 climbed by Raphael Slawinsky and Ian Welsted and the South Face of Annapurna climbed solo by Ueli Steck. The South Face of Annapurna ascent carried out by da Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani received a Special Mention from the Jury, while the "Walter Bonatti" Lifetime Achievement award was given to John Roskelley.
This evening at 21:00 at Courmayeur the award's ceremony of the Piolets d'Or 2014. All updates on twitter.
From 26 - 29 March the international meeting with the alpinism "Oscar" returns to Chamonix and Courmayeur on the two sides of Mont Blanc: a great jury will select the best climb in 2013, while American alpinist John Roskelley will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. Numerous events, including the meeting with Italian writer and climber Erri De Luca on 27 March at Courmayeur.
From the most remote mountains in Nepal and Pakistan to the frozen lands of Alaska, via the imposing Masherbrum massif and symbollic Annapurna. Five ascents, carried out by some of the world's most talented alpinists, are in the running for Piolets d'Or 2014, the most important mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 26 - 29 March 2014 at Courmayeur and Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc.
In early September 2013 the Portugese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent Kapura South (6350m) in the Nangma Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan, via their route Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4).
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk have successfully climbed a direct new route via the Shark's Fin on the NW face of Meru (6310m) in India's Garhwal Himalaya.