On the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet have established the mixed climb Narsil (M10 WI5+). Chatelan reports.
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that formed on the upper section of the face.
The video of the mountain rescue carried out by Jeff Mercier and the French mountain rescue service of two very lucky skiers who fell into a crevasse while skiing off-piste down the Vallée Blanche in the Mont Blanc massif.
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of: Sandy Allan, Kazu Amano, Valeri Babanov, Jordi Corominas, Fred Degoulet, Ines Papert, Andrej Štremfelj.
The film Generation Dry that explores the world of dry tooling, mixed climbing and winter mountaineering. Directed by Pierre Chauffour, with Gaetan Raymond, François Damilano, Jeff Mercier, Fred Degoulet, Tom Ballard and the late Stéphane Husson.
Anna Torretta reports about the Ice Climbing Festival held at Erzurum (Anatolia) in Turkey. Participants included the mountain guide from Courmayeur, Italy and the French mountain guide Jeff Mercier as well as Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord, Jost Kobusch and Raphael Schardt. Two new icefalls were established Cetin (WI5-) and Olga (WI4) dedicated to Olga Gorozhanina.
Simon Chatelan, Jeff Mercier and Ron Koller have made the first ascent of two new ice and mixed climbs at the Oeschinenwald sector above Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Yesterday at the drytooling crag Tomorrow’s World in the Dolomites Angelika Rainer repeated A Line Above the Sky. With this ascent the climber from the South Tyrol has become the first woman in the world to climb D15 and, in doing so, she has equalled the maximum difficulty ever climbed by her male counterparts.
Italian climber Angelika Rainer and French alpinist Jeff Mercier have repeated 'Je Ne Sais Quoi' and 'Line above the Sky' at the crag Tomorrow's World in Dolomites; these dry tooling test pieces was freed in 2016 by Tom Ballard.
The video directed by Arnaud Moro dedicated to French photographer and street artist Philippe Echaroux and his latest work on the Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc, aimed at raising awareness about global warming.
French alpinists Jeff Mercier, David Autheman, Lucien Boucansaud and Gérémy Rakowski have completed Red Devils, a new route up the NW Face of Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc massif, France.
Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the North face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.
On 5 May 2016 Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan made the first ascent of 'Universal Studio', a new mixed climb graded M8/650m on Rognon du Plan (3601m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France.
The video of Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para repeating the North Couloir Direct alpine climb on Les Drus in the Mont Blanc massif.
At the start of March at the total dry tooling crag Bus del Quai, Italy, Angelika Rainer repeated Low G-Man, her first route graded D14. This follows her January repeat of the mixed climb The Mustang M14- at Vail, Colorado, USA.
The report about the 26th edition of Ice Climbing Ecrins, the festival that took place from 14 - 17 January at l’Argentière-La Bessée, France.
The dry tooling climbing competition Red Bull White Cliffs 2015 took place on 3 and 4 October 2015 on the Isle of Wight, England and was won by Tim Emmett (England) and Angelika Rainer (Italy). The report by Marco Servalli.
On 15/07/2015 Vincent Fournier and Jeff Mercier made the first ascent of "Efareb", 1200m / 6b+ max. up South Face of Aiguille d’Argentière (3901m), Mont Blanc massif.
At the drytooling crag Bus del Quai di Iseo Lucie Hrozova has made the second repeat of Low G Man, the hardest total dry climb in Italy.