Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
On Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites (Italy) Paolo Baroldi, Filippo Mosca and Francesco Salvaterra have established Pilastro Nord, a new 700m rock climb that completes and attempt carried out in 1981 by Gianni Giudicati and Piercarlo Berta.
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
From 2 to 3 June 2015 Paolo Baroldi, Francesco Salvaterra and Alessio Tait made the first ascent of a new rock climb up the East Face of Monte Bianco di Presanella. The new route is called Il Male di Vivere (300m , 45° M 7a+ (VIII+) R3), has been described as “a difficult climb in a severe setting”, and crosses Gian Gian, the route put up in 1977 by Urbano Dell'Eva and Ivan Bertinotti.
On Friday, May 22 at Lecco the Grignetta d'Oro 2015 was awarded to Matteo Della Bordella while Ivo Ferrari and Romano Benet received special mentions. The other alpinists in the running for the Italian mountaineering award were Hervé Barmasse, Simon Gietl, Tamara Lunger, Corrado Pesce, Francesco Salvaterra and Luca Schiera.
The names have been revealed of the seven mountaineers in the running for the Grignetta d’Oro, the Italian mountaineering award that will be celebrated on Friday 22 May at Lecco. The jury has selected the following alpinists: Hervé Barmasse, Matteo Della Bordella, Simon Gietl, Tamara Lunger, Corrado Pesce, Francesco Salvaterra and Luca Schiera.
41 alpinists have been selected for the "Big List” of the Grignetta d'Oro, the Italian mountaineering award that goes to the Italian mountaineer whose climbs in 2013 and 2014 have most left their mark. The award will be celebrated on Friday 22 May at Lecco.
Francesco Salvaterra reports about the winter ascent, carried out together with Marcello Cominetti, of Hrushka up the East Face of Mur de Pisciadù, Sella, Dolomites, Italy
Currently there are numerous Italian teams climbing in Patagonia, in particular in the Chalten massif, where Cerro Torre was climbed via the Ragni route by Marcello Cominetti, Massimo Lucco, Francesco Salvaterra, Majori Marco, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli. The route's first ascent this season was made in September by Ermanno Salvaterra, Thomas Franchini and Nicola Binelli.
The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The report by Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti about the first ascent of Via Attraverso il Tempo (420m, VIII) up the SW Face of Campanile Basso, a new route climbed in August 2014 together with Alessandro Baù and Matteo Faletti.
From 11 September to 15 November Ermanno Salvaterra, Tomas Franchini, Nicola Binelli and Francesco Salvaterra will return to Patagonia to try and complete their new route, which they started in November 2013, up the centre of the West Face of Torre Egger.
In June 2014 Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Calza made the first ascent of Welcome to Tijuana (180m 7a, 6b+ oblig), a new multi-pitch climb in the Gola del Limarò canyon close to Arco, Trentino - Alto Adige, Italy
The video of the first ascent attempt up the West Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia carried out in November 2013 by the Italian alpinists Ermanno Salvaterra, Tomas Franchini, Paolo Grisa and Francesco Salvaterra.
A brief and by no means complete journey through the stories and the climbs of 2013, while waiting for new year.
Italian alpinist Ermanno Salvaterra recounts his recent attempt up the West Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, carried out with Tomas Franchini, Paolo Grisa and Francesco Salvaterra in November. During the last expedition days Tomas Franchini and Francesco Salvaterra made the first ascent of the difficult and frightening Ruleta Trentino (650m M5 WI5) up the south face of Cerro Rincón.
In June Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Binelli made the first ascent of Via del Guerriero (VI+/VIII-/A2 R3), a new route in the Gola del Limarò close to Arco, Trentino - Alto Adige.
On 31 March 2012 Francesco Salvaterra and Patrick Ghezzi established Depravation (250m,T D+/ED- WI5 M6 VI+ A1/2), a new route up the East Face of Presanella (3558m) in Italy.
On 21 January 2012 the Italians Francesco Salvaterra, Marco Fedrizzi and Luca Tamburini established Alice in Wonderland (550m,TD M5+/A0), up the East Face of Presanella (3558m), Italy.