Francesco Salvaterra introduces the rock climb Nido di rondine, a 'forgotten gem' on Scoglio di Boazzo in Val Daone established in 1985 by Gianni Berta, G.P. Foti and Ermanno Salvaterra.
Silvestro Franchini talks about his link-up of the routes Orion, Psycobar and Gatto Silvestro at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, described as the "most beautiful free climb combination" in this mini-Yosemite in Northern Italy.
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit of Cerro Torre, and 32 hours in total to return to their starting point. The first Torre Traverse was carried out over 4 days in 2008 by Haley together with Rolando Garibotti.
Ermanno Salvaterra documents the climbing and Patagonia in1993-94 in this video, Fuiste Alpiste, recently updated with names of the climbers of those unforgettable six months spent, more than twenty years ago, at the base camp of Cerro Torre.
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and Franček Knez.
It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film about those days on the mountain that added, like so many others, an important chapter to Patagonia's mountaineering history.
Currently there are numerous Italian teams climbing in Patagonia, in particular in the Chalten massif, where Cerro Torre was climbed via the Ragni route by Marcello Cominetti, Massimo Lucco, Francesco Salvaterra, Majori Marco, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli. The route's first ascent this season was made in September by Ermanno Salvaterra, Thomas Franchini and Nicola Binelli.
From 11 September to 15 November Ermanno Salvaterra, Tomas Franchini, Nicola Binelli and Francesco Salvaterra will return to Patagonia to try and complete their new route, which they started in November 2013, up the centre of the West Face of Torre Egger.
Mirtillo, Blueberry is a small deer, one of the many victims of those accidents defined by us humans as simply "collateral damage", of little importance, something completely indifferent. But not so for Ermanno Salvaterra who tells the story of his little Blueberry, how it fought for its life and how it has now found a new home.
The video of the first ascent attempt up the West Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia carried out in November 2013 by the Italian alpinists Ermanno Salvaterra, Tomas Franchini, Paolo Grisa and Francesco Salvaterra.
A brief and by no means complete journey through the stories and the climbs of 2013, while waiting for new year.
Italian alpinist Ermanno Salvaterra recounts his recent attempt up the West Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, carried out with Tomas Franchini, Paolo Grisa and Francesco Salvaterra in November. During the last expedition days Tomas Franchini and Francesco Salvaterra made the first ascent of the difficult and frightening Ruleta Trentino (650m M5 WI5) up the south face of Cerro Rincón.
On 30 July Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold, Thomas Huber and Matias Villavicencio succeeded in a rare winter ascent of Cerro Torre, Patagonia.
On Saturday 2 March 2013, Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of a new route which, for the first time ever, breaches the West Face of Torre Egger (Cerro Torre massif, Patagonia).
On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
Colin Haley and Jon Walsh have made the first free ascent of Tobogan (700m, AI4, M6) on Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia.
I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.