American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on the mountain
Watch Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles repeating the Slovak Direct up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska in 2019.
The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.
Sam Hennessy reports about the second ascent of Light Traveller, one of the most difficult climbs on Denali, Alaska, first ascended by Stephen Koch and Marko Prezelj in 2001 and repeated now, alpine style, together with Michael Gardner in a 36-hour push.
Interview with Anne Gilbert Chase after the ninth ascent and first female ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali, climbed from 2 - 5 June 2018 with Chantel Astorga.
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley after his record-breaking ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska in 8 hours 7 minutes on 5 June 2018
The Red Bull Der Lange Weg got underway today at 10:00am. The ski mountaineering traverse across the Alps from Vienna to Nice will be attempted by Tamara Lunger, Núria Picas, Janelle Smiley, Mark Smiley, David Wallmann, Philipp Reiter and Bernhard Hug. Following in the footsteps of the historic 1971 Austrians Robert Kittl, Klaus Hoi, Hansjörg Farbmacher and Hans Mariacher, the 2018 team aims to complete the traverse in less than 41 days.
17 March 2018 is the starting date of the Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the immense ski mountaineering traverse across the Alps from Viena to Nice following in the footsteps of the historic 1971 Austrian team comprised of Robert Kittl, Klaus Hoi, Hansjörg Farbmacher and Hans Mariacher. An international team of 7 alpinists composed of Tamara Lunger, Núria Picas, Janelle Smiley, Mark Smiley, David Wallmann, Philipp Reiter and Bernhard Hug will attempt to complete the ski tour traverse in less than 41 days.
Legendary American climber Fred Beckey has passed away aged 94.
Interview with American alpinist Katie Bono who on 13-14 June 2017 ascended and descended the West Buttress route on Denali (McKinley) in just 21 hours and 6 minutes. This is a female speed record and one of the fastest known times to date.
17 years after his ground-breaking ascent, American alpinist Steve House looks back on the extremely fast repeat of the Slovak Direct up the South Face of Denali (Alaska), climbed with Mark Twight and Scott Backes in 60 hours non-stop.
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.
In memory of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who died while climbing on Nuptse in Nepal on April 30, 2017, written by his friend and ace American alpinist Steve House.
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our film "Chris Bonington - Life and climbs" provided a good reason for a trip (and a little adventure) to discover the meaning of the mountains in this great East Asian country.
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.