Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
American alpinists Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt have made an astoundingly fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, requiring just 21 hours and 8 minutes to climb the mountain via the Supercanaleta route and descend via the French route and return to the starting point.
The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established in 40 hours up the East Face of Cerro San Lorenzo.
Dani Ascaso, Lise Billon, Santiago Padros and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of Balas y Chocolate (900m, ED+), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Cerro Adela Norte in Patagonia.
Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc has carried out a fast solo ascent of the routes Tomahawk and Excocet on Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia.
In May 2015 John Frieh and Doug Shepherd made the first ascent of "Agua Sin Gas" (III WI4/steep snow) up the North Face of Mount Lucifer in Alaska. The trip report by John Frieh.
On 16/04/2015 Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher made the first ascent of the West Face of Marconi Sur in Patagonia via his new route Into the Wild. Pucher's climb is only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first solo via the East Face carried out in 1995 by Antonio Taglialegne.
The video of the attempt carried out by Thomas Huber, Andi Schnarf and Tommy Aguilo to complete the Torre Traverse in Patagonia via the mountains Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre.
On Saturday 11 April the awards ceremony of the 23rd Piolets d'Or, the Oscars of alpinism, were held at Courmayeur, Italy. Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, Russians Aleksander Gukov and Aleksey Lonchinsky and Slovenians Marko Prezelj, Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic were awarded the Piolet d'Or 2015. Britain’s Chris Bonington received the Piolet d'Or Carrière.
In Patagonia American alpinists Colin Haley and Alex Honnold have attempted a one day ascent of the Cerro Torre Traverse, enchaining Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt. The two were forced to turn back just two pitches below the last summit due to the Patagonian winds.
58 ascents carried out in 2014 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 9 - 12 April, 2015 at Courmayeur and Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc.
From 18 - 21 January 2015 Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc climbed Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt, This new traverse from south to north has been called Travesia del Oso Buda, in memory of Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg.
American alpinists Colin Haley and Rob Smith have made the first ascent of Romance Explosion (500m, 5.10R, M5R) and in doing so have made the first ascent of Aguja Antipasto, the beautiful tower located next to Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia.
Interview with Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold who from 12 - 16 February 2014 carried out the coveted first traverse of the major ridge line of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
On 14/02/2014 the 42-year-old American alpinist Chad Kellogg lost his life while descending from Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Colin Haley from America and Rolando Garibotti from Argentina have grabbed the first ascent of La SuperWhillans, a striking ramp up the East Face of Cerro Marconi Central in Patagonia.
On 21/02/2013 Colin Haley and Sarah Hart made the first ascent of the West Face of Mojon Rojo via their El Zorro (700m, 5.10, A1).
Fresh news from Patagonia: new routes on Fitz Roy (Flavio Daflon, Sergio Tartari and Luciano Fiorenza) and Aguja de l’S (Josh Huckaby and Mikey Schaefer); The Corkscrew on Cerro Torre climbed by Colin Haley and Chad Kellogg; an attempt currently underway on the West Face of Torre Egger (Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Bernasconi and Luca Schiera); the exploration of the East Face of San Lorenzo (Roberto Iannilli, Luca D' Andrea, Massimo Massimiano and Lorenzo Nocco).
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy together with Andrea Di Donato.
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.