The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Serious rockfall took place on the south face of Torre Venezia (Civetta, Dolomites) recently, affecting the historic rock climbs Via Tissi, Gran diedro and Gran Diedro – Diretta.
Donnafugata is a huge multi-pitch rock climb established in 2004 by Christoph Hainz with Roger Schäli on the south face of the Torre Trieste. 750 meters of demanding and beautiful climbing up one of the symbols of legendary Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites. Manrico dell'Agnola recounts its story in a film that now, together with film producer Karpos, has been placed online for everyone to see.
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Barba Bianca, Christoph Hainz and Manuel Baumgartner add new mixed climb to Val Travenanzes, Dolomites
On 10/01/2019 Christoph Hainz and Manuel Baumgartner made the first ascent of Barba Bianca, a new mixed climb in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites.
Interview with Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold after the ropeless ascent of via Comici - Dimai up Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Dolomites) in 46 minutes and 30 seconds.
Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have made the first ascent of big new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
On 5 September 2019 Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold made a free solo ascent of the Comici - Dimai route up Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo massif, Dolomites, in just 46 minutes and 30 seconds.
Swiss mountaineer Roger Schäli has celebrated his 50th complete ascent of the Eiger in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland.
The mountain guides Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner have made the first ascent of Zeitsprung, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Große Zinne / Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
On the south face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Christoph Hainz and Gerda Schwienbacher have established Via Grohmann - Hainz, a big new rock climb timed to celebrate the first ascent the mountain carried out 150 years ago, on 21 August 1869 by the Austrian mountaineer Paul Grohmann together with Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher.
Italian alpinist Nicola Tondini remembers Hansjörg Auer, the great Austrian mountaineer who died last week in an avalanche in Canada, along with David Lama and Jess Roskelley.
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by Andi Fichtner, Christoph Hainz and Roger Schaeli. Olivari reports.
Swiss alpinist Roger Schaeli has made the first ascent of Airplane Mode up the North Face of the Eiger.
On the North Face of the Eiger Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have repeated Deep Blue Sea and Magic Mushroom. This is the first time on the famous Swiss mountain for the two climbers.
Accompanied by mountain guide Christoph Hainz, Reiner Kauschke has repeated Superdirectissima up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. Kauschke had made the first ascent of the ‘Saxon Route' with Peter Siegert and Gert Uhner in 1963 and now he repeated the line in 17 hours at the extraordinary age of 80.
13 months after his life-threatening accident at Sottoguda in the Dolomites, Austrian mountaineer Thomas Bubendorfer has established a new mixed climb up on the South Face of Grossglockner (3798 m) in Austria. The new route is called Das dritte Leben, The Third life, and Bubendorfer established the line with Max Sparber and Hans Zlöbl.
South Tyrol’s Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner have established ‘New look new hook’, a new mixed climb up Rauhe Gaisl, Pragser Tal, Dolomites. The report by Christoph Hainz.
Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.
The report by XMountain mountain guide Nicola Tondini about his first ascent of ‘Non abbiate paura di sognare’ up the SW Face of Cima Scotoni in the Italian dolomites. Established with different partners the route tackles difficulties up to X (8b) (obligatory IX-, 7b+) and checks in as one of the most difficult multi-pitch climbs in the Dolomites.