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Search results 76 news found as "Action Directe". News reports: from 1 to 20


18.02.2021 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Simon Lorenzi talks Soudain seul, his 9A boulder problem at Fontainebleau in France

Interview with Simon Lorenzi after the first ascent of Soudain seul, ie the sit start to Big Island at Fontainebleau in France, which the Belgian rock climber has graded 9A.

20.11.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer

The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura

10.11.2020 by Alexander Huber in Alpinism

Siete Venas on Alpeltalkopf freed by Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber

Alexander Huber reports about his summer 2020 first free ascent of Siete Venas on Alpeltalkopf (Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps), an 8b multi-pitch established with his brother Thomas Huber.

24.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Simon Lorenzi sends Quoi de neuf classic roof bloc at Orsay in France

The video of Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi on Quoi de neuf, an 8B + boulder problem at Orsay in France.



31.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Interviews

Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview

Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+ and increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.

24.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Interviews

Adam Ondra onsights Il Maratoneta, Manolo’s historic 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia

Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who has made the first onsight of Il Maratoneta, the first 8b+ in Croatia freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 1987 and at the time one of the hardest climbs in the world. Furthermore, he has made the first ascent of Genius Loci 9a which adds a variation start to Il Maratoneta.

21.05.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece

French climber Melissa Le Nevé has made the first female ascent of Action Directe, the masterpiece established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991. This milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world.

06.04.2020 by Iker Pou in Climbing

Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago

Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world.

09.03.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefan Scarperi sends Bügeleisen sit 8C in Maltatal

Stefan Scarperi from the South Tyrol, Italy, has repeated Bügeleisen sit, the 8C boulder problem in Maltatal, Austria, established in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival.

29.01.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a

42-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of La Nave de los Locos on the island of Mallorca in Spain. With this ascent he celebrates 20 years of 9a climbing, after sending his first in 2000, Action Directe freed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.

05.12.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Carnati sends Dreamtime at Cresciano

Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Dreamtime at Cresciano in Switzerland. Established in 2000 by Fred Nicole, this was the first boulder problem in the world to be graded 8C.

18.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Rotpunkt featuring Alex Megos

The film Rotpunkt featuring Alexander Megos; a portrait of the German climber and a look into the history of free climbing including the likes of Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich.

24.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Chiara Hanke in Frankenjura becomes first German woman to climb 9a

25-year-old Chiara Hanke has repeated Sever the wicked hand in the Frankenjura and, in doing so, has become the first German woman to climb 9a.

26.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Feichter discovers Sid Lives at Nago, Arco

South Tyrolean climber Alexander Feichter has repeated Sid Lives, the 9a sports climb put up by Gabriele Moroni at Nago, Arco, Italy.

19.03.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Dave Graham rules La Rambla at Siurana

American rock climber Dave Graham has repeated the famous sport climb La Rambla. Gonzalo Larrocha also checks in with a repeat of the benchmark 9a+ at Siurana in Spain.

18.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dariusz Sokołowski discovers his Parallel World, D16 dry tooling in the Dolomites

On 20 December 2018 Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski made the first free ascent of Parallel World, a dry tooling climb that crosses a 60-meter horizontal roof at crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D16, if the grade is confirmed, this checks in as one of the most difficult dry tooling climbs in the world.

09.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria

Climbing alone and ground-up, last spring German alpinist Alexander Huber made the first ascent of Mauerläufer (200m, 8b+) up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.

19.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Iker Pou at Margalef frees Artaburu, his hardest climb ever

At Margalef in Spain, Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of Artaburu, his hardest sport climb to date.

14.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Stefano Ghisolfi portrays his Perfecto Mundo at Margalef

Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his repeat of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ at Margalef in Spain considered one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world. After Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alexander Megos, the 25-year-old climber from Italy is now only the fourth climber to master these difficulties.

13.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefan Scarperi does Action Directe in Frankenjura

On 2 November 2018 Stefan Scarperi repeated Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura. He is the third Italian to repeat the legendary route established by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 after Gabriele Moroni and Stefano Carnati.

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