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27.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen

Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.

24.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

The Principles of Alpine Climbing / Mountain safety with Steve House

American alpinist Steve House has created a free video series entitled Alpine Principles to teach the climbing community how to make better decisions in the mountains.

24.05.2019 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif

Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.

23.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Chamlang NW Face climbed by Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák

Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák have climbed a new route up the NW Face of Chamlang in Nepal.

15.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Everest new route attempt by Cory Richards and Esteban Mena

Mountaineers Cory Richards from the USA and Esteban ‘Topo’ Mena from Ecuador are currently trying to forge a new climb up the NE Face of Everest. Kami Rita Sherpa has just climbed the highest mountain in the world for a record-breaking 23rd time.

13.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president

Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.

03.05.2019 by Tito Arosio in Alpinism

Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face

On 31/03/2019 Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti made the first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Piz Buin (3312m) in the Silvretta group of the Rhaetian Alps. Arosio reports

30.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy

Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)

23.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell

On Sunday 21 April 2019 the bodies of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were recovered after being caught by an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada last week. We publish the press release of Parks Canada and also the farewells of the respective families.

19.04.2019 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers

Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.

19.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley

The authorities at Parks Canada have issued a statement in which three mountaineers, presumed to be David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjörg Auer, have died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada.

18.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

David Lama and Hansjörg Auer missing in Canada

According to the Austrian newspaper Tiroler Tageszeitung, Austrian alpinists David Lama and Hansjörg Auer are reported missing after an avalanche in the Rocky Mountains in Canada.

18.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, last places available for upcoming clinics

Tickets are running out for the Arcteryx Alpine Academy 2019, scheduled to take place from 4 to 7 July 2019 Chamonix, France. This unique event offers climbers of all abilities to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly on Mont Blanc.

18.04.2019 by Francesco Fazzi in Alpinism

Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina

In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.

13.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge

Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Martin Echser have made the first ascent of the 9-pitch mixed climb Uristier Schöllenen (WI6+/M8) in the Schöllenen Gorge, Switzerland.

11.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985

The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.

10.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Everest Virtual Reality climb with Sherpa Tenji, Jon Griffith

The trailer of Everest VR, the film by British mountaineer Jon Griffith that documents an attempt by Sherpa Tenji to climb Mt Everest without supplementary oxygen.

08.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Canada’s Mount Fay East Face finally climbed by Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič, Ines Papert

From 2 - 3 April 2019 Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič and Ines Papert made the first ascent of The Sound of Silence (1100m, M8 WI5) up Mount Fay in the Alberta Rockies, Canada. This is the first route to climb the entire East Face.

04.04.2019 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

La Vierge du Flambeau in Mont Blanc massif / Miss Go by Ezio Marlier

Ezio Marlier introduces the modern mixed climb Miss No which he first ascended with Elisabetta Ceaglio up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau (3244m), Mont Blanc massif in April 2017.

02.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach

On Aiguille de l'Amône (3586m), Swiss mountaineers Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach have made the first ascent of L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, described as being a 'challenging mixed climb’ up the mountain’s relatively unknown East Face.

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