Spanish climber Pol Roca Lopez has made the first ascent of Animalistic, an 8c Deep Water Solo climb on the island of Mallorca.
On Thursday 8 October 2020 at 12:00 the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, will be streamed on gazzetta.it and ilfestivaldellosport.it
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
The video of French climber Seb Bouin repeating Biographie, the 9a+ at Céüse freed in 2001 by Chris Sharma. Featuring Arnaud Petit and Sylvain Millet.
22-year old British rock climber Mathew Wright has made a rare ascent of Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor. First ascended in 1990 and hailed as the world’s first 8c+, this is increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.
Robbie Phillips, Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall and Culann O’Brien crack climbing below an overpass in Edinburgh, Scotland
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo has repeated El Bon Combat, the 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain established in 2015 by Chris Sharma.
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella, Yannick Glatthard discover their Ying Yang on Gross Wellhorn
On Gross Wellhorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland the alpinists Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella and Yannick Glatthard have completed Ying Yang, a 450m multipitch climb graded 8b.
Earlier today Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Change, the first 9b+ sport climb in the world established by Adam Ondra in 2012 at Flatanger in Norway.
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.
The video of Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi on Quoi de neuf, an 8B + boulder problem at Orsay in France.
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs in the Dolomites.
The video of Adam Ondra making the first repeat, thanks to a cunning kneebar, of Beginning, the route freed in May 2020 by Stefano Ghisolfi at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy.
The film Gorropu, a portrait of Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra repeating the famous multi-pitch Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, will be streamed on Monday 21 September 2020 from 21:00 to 24:00 on the website ferrino.it.
A video tribute to John Gill, considered by many the father of modern bouldering, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.