After a terrifying fall into a crevasse, fortunately without serious consequences, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have ended their winter expedition to Gasherbrum I and II in Pakistan.
Climbing alpine style, the 46-year-old Russian-Polish mountaineer Denis Urubko has forged a new route up Gasherbrum II (8032m) in Pakistan.
Dr. Francesco Cassardo, the Italian mountaineer injured last Saturday at over 6300 meters on Gasherbrum VII, has been airlifted to safety. The rescue efforts by Carlalberto Cala Cimenti, Denis Urubko, Don Bowie, Jaroslaw Zdanowich and Janusz Adamski and also Marco Confortola proved to be of fundamental importance.
Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention
Three ascents have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I climbed by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček, Shispare climbed by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima and Nuptse NW climbed by Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux. Special mentions have been awarded for the ascent of Nilkanth by Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert Chase and Jason Thompson and also to Alex Honnold for his outstanding contribution to climbing in the year 2017. Andrej Štremfelj to receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
32-year-old mountaineer Italian Maurizio Giordano from the Aosta Military Expedition perished while climbing Gasherbrum IV in Karakorum, Pakistan.
On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out from 6 - 7 January 2018, the Czech mountaineers climbed alpine style for 33 hours, breached difficulties up to M4/WI5+, 95° and crossed four individual summits. Holeček, who climbed a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 m) in 2017, provides the report.
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).
On 12 July 2016 Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič reached the summit of Broad Peak. Two weeks later they climbed the Northwest Ridge of Gasherbrum IV, reaching the North Summit (7900m) on 26 July 2016.
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
7 July the 51-year-old great Polish alpinists Artur Hajzer died while falling down the Japanese couloir on Gasherbrum I (8068m).
The final stage of the The North Face Speaker Series 2012 took place in London on 20/11/2012 with two great alpinists: America's Conrad Anker and Italy's Simone Moro. The themes couldn't have been any others than alpinism and the Himalaya, from Meru to Gasherbrum II.
The second edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award will take place on 6 July 2012 at Selva di Val Gardena in the Italian Dolomites. The alpinists nominated for this award are Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards for the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, Sean Villanueva, Ben Ditto, Nicolas Favresse and Olivier Favressee for their Greenland Big Walls and Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya for their new route up Great Trango Tower in Pakistan.
The search operation has been called off for the alpinists Gerfried Göschl, Cedric Hählen and Nisar Hussain who went missing on Gasherbrum I on 09/03/2012.
At 08:30 local time on 09/03/2012 the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (Karakorum, Pakistan) was reached for the first time in winter by the Polish mountaineers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab. On the same day the alpinists Gerfried Göschl, Nisar Hussain and Cedric Hahlen were seen for the last time on the same mountain.
On 17/11/2011 at 20:30 CET Planetmountain will live stream the London stage of The North Face Speaker Series with Simone Moro, Cory Richards and Denis Urubko about the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum 8035m.
The video of the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, carried out by Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards on 02/02/2011.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now reached Base Camp after an arduous descent during which they were hit by an avalanche. This historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan) now draws to a close.
After yesterday's historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan), Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now descended from Camp 3 to Camp 1.
At 11:28 local time Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. This is the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world, a historic climb which is also the first winter ascent of one of the five 8000ers located in Pakistan.