Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama after the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, carried out on 20 and 21 January 2012 with Peter Ortner.
Italian alpinist Mario Conti shares his views about the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor route on the SE Face of Cerro Torre.
The report by David Lama about his first free ascent of the Compressor route up the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre (Patagonia), carried out by the Austrian climber from 20 - 21 January 2012.
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently by Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy.
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, from No Siesta to Cerro Torre. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
From the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses to Patagonia. Corrado "Korra" Pesce's alpine journey, introduced by Rolando Garibotti in this meeting and interview - from one alpinist to another - in El Chalten
The 2011 "andesimo" season in Patagonia has begun in earnest with a great ascent of the rarely repeated West Face of Cerro Torre at the hands of Michael Lerjen-Demjen from Zermatt and Korra Pesce from Chamonix who chose to ascend the famous Ragni route (1500m, AI5+ M4 MI6 mushroom ice, Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari and Pino Negri 1974).
In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.
On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate the lifeless body.
Interview with David Lama prior to his expedition to Cerro Torre, Patagonia together with Daniel Steuerer. The two Austrians have an important objective: to attempt the first free ascent of the famous Compressor Route.
Ermanno Salvaterra discusses the state of Patagonian mountaineering, starting with the large number of ascents on the West Face of Cerro Torre to talk about other class routes on the Torre and her sisters.
On 2 December the Italians Matteo Bernasconi and Fabio Salini carried out a fast ascent of the Via dei Ragni on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. This route was also climbed the previous day by Rolando Garibotti and Co.
Cesarino Fava died yesterday aged 87 at Malé (Italy). His life was bonded to mountaineering and in particular to Cerro Torre in Patagonia. All mountaineers have lost a great friend.
After Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley's successful linkup of the Torre traverse (Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre), Ermanno Salvaterra offers insight into the history and the dream of the traverse and his vision of the future of mountaineering in Patagonia.
From 21 – 24 January 2008 the Italo-Argentine mountaineer Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley from the U.S.A. carried out the first traverse of Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre, one of the most coveted projects in Patagonia.
From 21 to 23/11/2007 Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami, Mirko Mase and Fabio Salvadei accomplished the traverse of Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron and Torre Egger in the Cerro Torre group in Patagonia. The Italian mountaineers turned back from the Col of Conquest beneath Cerro Torre due to risk of avalanches.
On 14/02/2007 circa 40 mountaineers held an assembly at El Chaltén in Argentina’s "Los Glaciares" National Park to debate about the future if the expansion bolts on the 1970 Maestri “Compressor route” up Cerro Torre. Report and thoughts by Vicente Labate
In February 2007 Cyrille Berthod and Simon Anthamatten travelled to Patagonia for their first time ever and climbed 8 major peaks in the Fitz Roy massif - De L’S, Saint Exupery, St.Raphael, Poincenot, Fitz Roy, Mermoz, Guillaumet and Cerro Torre.
Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj has returned from a five week trip to Patagonia where, dodging typical unstable weather, he made two fast ascents together with the Americans Stephen Koch and Dean Potter, one on Cerro Torre and one on Torre Standhardt.
Ermanno Salvaterra's intervention after his latest ascent on Cerro Torre with Rolando Garibotti and Alessandro Beltrami.