Watch Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles repeating the Slovak Direct up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska in 2019.
The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.
Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.
Mountain climbing in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden have made the first ascent of Shaa Téix’i (1300m, 5.11a) up the West Face of the Devils Paw, Juneau Ice Cap.
The video of Caro North and her discovery of Minialaska, a new rock climbing area in Patagonia.
Sam Hennessy reports about the second ascent of Light Traveller, one of the most difficult climbs on Denali, Alaska, first ascended by Stephen Koch and Marko Prezelj in 2001 and repeated now, alpine style, together with Michael Gardner in a 36-hour push.
Caro North and Brette Harrington have made the first ascent of new mixed line up the NE Face of Southern Duke and added a new rock climb to the Taku towers on the Juneau Ice Cap in Alaska.
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley after his record-breaking ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska in 8 hours 7 minutes on 5 June 2018
In early April 2018 French alpinists Thomas Auvaro, Jeremy Fino, Matthieu Rideau and Antoine Rolle climbed two new routes in the Revelation Mountains in Alaska. Rideau provides the trip report.
British mountaineers Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Fun or Fear, a new climb up the East face of Mt. Jezebel in the Revelations range of Alaska. Climbed alpine style over two days, the route breaches difficulties up to M6+, 90 deg neve, Ai6 R.
The two highly talented alpinists Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson are officially missing and presumed deceased in Alaska. They have not been heard from since their 5 March ascent of the Mendenhall Towers.
Mountaineering in Alaska: in spring 2017 Lithuania’s Gediminas Simutis (28) and Germany's Frieder Wittmann (31) pulled off a series of interesting first ascents above the remote Fish Glacier in the Revelation Mountains. The trip report by Simutis.
From 5 to 21 July 2017 Catalan alpinist Sílvia Vidal made the solo first ascent of 'Un pas més' (A4 / A4+, 6a, 530 m) up the West Face of Xanadu (Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska).
17 years after his ground-breaking ascent, American alpinist Steve House looks back on the extremely fast repeat of the Slovak Direct up the South Face of Denali (Alaska), climbed with Mark Twight and Scott Backes in 60 hours non-stop.
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.