The 12th edition of Melloblocco drew to a close today in Val Masino and Val di Mello, Italy. This is the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world and confirmation came from the 2,500 registered participants representing 25 nations, the 5,000+ climbers and also the unique nature of the event that unites their irrepressible love for climbing with the beauty of these valleys.
The news was made official a few hours ago: the well-known Italian mountain guide and member of the mountain rescue service Oskar Piazza and Dr. Gigliola Mancinelli perished beneath an avalanche triggered by the earthquake that destroyed the village of Langtang in northern Nepal. The other two expedition members Giovanni Pizzorini and Pino Antonini have survived. Four Italians died as a result of Saturday’s earthquake; the well-known mountaineer Renzo Benedetti and Marco Pojer were buried by an avalanche in the Rolwaling Valley. In the meantime Nepal is enduring days of extreme difficulty.
On Friday 29/08/2014 during the 9th edition of Arco Rock Legends the Salewa Rock Award was won by Muriel Sarkany while Urko Carmona Barandiaran won the La Sportiva Competition Award. The Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil award was assigned to the Italian writer, sculptor, alpinist and rock climber Mauro Corona.
The summit of Kangchenjunga reached by Denis Urubko via the NW Face reveals a great chapter in alpinism and a great team effort which included the great mountaineers Alex Txikon, Dmitri Sinev, Artem Braun and Adam Bielecki.
On Saturday 17 May 2014 Italian alpinists Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summited Kangchenjunga (8.586m), the third highest mountain in the world. Their ascent marks a great return to the Himalaya and is also an important and unique journey.
The 11th Melloblocco came to an end today; once again the international bouldering meeting proved to be the biggest event of its kind worldwide, with 2600 registered climbers and more than 4000 people in Val Masino and Val di Mello
On Thursday 13 March Hervé Barmasse made the first winter solo enchainment of the four Matterhorn ridges in winter, as well as the first winter solo ascent of the Furggen Ridge via the overhangs. The interview.
From 30 April to 4 May 2014 Melloblocco, the world's biggest bouldering and climbing meeting, returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy. Almost 1200 climbers have already pre-registered for this event. Simone Pedeferri and the team of route setters are hard at work preparing the boulder problems and new areas of this 11th edition.
Marco Anghileri 'Butch', 41 years old, great alpinist from Lecco and member of the Gamma climbing club, extremely well known, loved and held in high regard by the entire mountaineering world, has died on the Central Pillar of Mont Blanc. The body was recovered this morning by the Valle d'Aosta Mountain Rescue service.
A brief and by no means complete journey through the stories and the climbs of 2013, while waiting for new year.
Rossana Podestà died in Rome today aged 79. The famous Italian actress was also life partner of Walter Bonatti.
In September Hervé Barmasse with Martin Castrillo made the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone and with Martin Castrillo and Pedrito el "fino" the first ascent (in winter) of two of the three Colmillos summits in the Cordon Marconi area.
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck talks about his fast and impressive solo ascent up the South Face of Annapurna South (8091m, Nepal, Himalaya) that on 8 and 9 October 2013 enabled him to make the first ascent of the direct line attempted in 1992 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Pierre Beghin.
On Friday 7/09/2013 during the 8th edition of Arco Rock Legends the Salewa Rock Award was won by Adam Ondra while Mina Markovic won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Paraclimbing and all Paraclimbers received the prestigious prize Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil.
On 12/08/2013 Corrado De Monte, known to all as Icaro, fell to his death while reaching base of Torre Iolanda in Moiazza (Dolomites). Born in Trieste 53 years ago, the Italian alpinist, caver and mountain guide was one of the most popular characters in the climbing and mountaineering world.
Interview with Lorenzo Di Nozzi, the author of Valsesia - pasture portraits, a book of photographs that documents the two-year journey with the shepherds high up in the Sesia Valley (Monte Rosa).
In this interview we ask Simone Moro, Maurizio Folini and Armin Senoner to speak about their helicopter rescue operations carried out between April and May this year in the Nepalese Himalayas, about their records but also about the prospects and difficulties of operating on the highest mountains in the world. An activity, it is worth remembering, that is still in its early stages.
5/05/2013. The last day of the 10th Melloblocco. 10 days of climbing and bouldering to reaffirm the indissoluble bond between Val Masino - Val di Mello and the Melloblockers. All 2,000 climbers have promised to return next year.
We briefly talked with Simone Moro, currently at Everest Base Camp after he, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith were attacked at 7200m on their way to Camp 3 on Everest. Here is his account of this incredible, terrifying incident which will require time to understand and comprehend.
Some thoughts about the Jury verdict of the 21st Piolet d'Or 2013 which assigned the award to all six nominated ascents.