Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'
Tamara Lunger from the South Tyrol, Italy, has recently returned home after attempting to climb K2 in winter. The expedition was an important but also tragic experience, marked by the loss of Sergi Mingote, Atanas Skatov, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Juan Pablo Mohr and John Snorri Sigurjónsson.
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Etienne Bernard, the 27-year-old ski instructor, mountain guide and mountaineer from Val di Fassa, perished in an avalanche yesterday on Mount Pordoi (Dolomites, Italy).
Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.
British mountaineer Doug Scott passed away today. Aged 79, he was recognised as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times.
Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary Nepalese mountaineer nicknamed Snow Leopard and famous for having climbed Everest 10 times without the use of supplementary oxygen between 1983 and 1996, passed away yesterday at 72.
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
A thought for paralympic sports icon Alex Zanardi who is fighting for his life in hospital in Siena and who has always been an incredible and invincible friend for everyone.
On 12 May 2020 Matteo Bernasconi, the talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and member of the Ragni di Lecco climbing club, perished in an avalanche. Born in 1982 and loved by everyone, Berna was ski mountaineering in Valtellina when the accident occurred.
The docu-film Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs (2015, 22 minutes) is now online. Directed by Vinicio Stefanello for the Municipality of Courmayeur, in this film great British mountaineer tells his life story.
Courtesy of the Scoiattoli di Cortina we have published online Rosso 70: Stories and memories of 70 years of alpinism of the Scoiattoli di Cortina. The film by Vinicio Stefanello and Francesco Mansutti retraces the first 70 years of the historic and famous Italian mountaineering club established in the Dolomites in 1939.
Watch Heinz Mariacher repeating Rude Boys (8b/5.13c) at Smith Rock, Oregon, USA. A video from 1987 that takes you back to the origins of this 'new climbing’.
Donnafugata is a huge multi-pitch rock climb established in 2004 by Christoph Hainz with Roger Schäli on the south face of the Torre Trieste. 750 meters of demanding and beautiful climbing up one of the symbols of legendary Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites. Manrico dell'Agnola recounts its story in a film that now, together with film producer Karpos, has been placed online for everyone to see.
Now more than ever we are called upon to do our part. We must stay at home for everyone’s good, in order to regain happiness and also the freedom to return to the mountains.
We are called upon to face one of the biggest tests of our time, one the must deal with the utmost difficulties. In order to do so we must use all our strength and experience. And we must do it all together. Only then will everything be fine.
With indoor gyms closed in Italy many climbers consider climbing outdoors. However, one must not ignore the fact that now, with many areas quarantined, it is paramount that everyone acts even more responsibly, for themselves but also for others. Happy climbing (if you can) and well wishes to all, from at least 1 meter away.
The Planpincieux glacier on the Italian side of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) is at risk of collapsing. The road into Val Ferret has been closed. And yet it seems as if nothing awakens us.