469 News found

Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.

Enrico Maioni, Cortina Mountain Guide, introduces Wolkenreise, a multi-pitch alpine sports climb Pilastro di Misurina in the Cadini Group of the Italian Dolomites, first ascended in 2017 by Peter Manhartsberger and Stefan Kopeinig and dedicated to Florian Thamer.

On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)

'This is my city. This is Bergamo. This is the sound of the epidemic affecting us all.' Italian mountaineer Eleonora Delnevo shares the pain of her city battling against the coronavirus.

During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.

Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.

Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,

In Valsertal (Zillertal Alps, Tyrol) Martin Schidlowski and Raphaela Haug have climbed Catwalk, a probable new mixed line up the NE Face of Hohe Warte.

In Langental (Val Gardena, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Happy New Year, a two-pitch mixed route graded M6+.

A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.

In Val Lietres (Langental, Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler have repeated Once in a Lifetime, which they first ascended in February 2018. This is probably the first time that the icefall up Col Turont has been climbed entirely on ice. Riegler reports.

In Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites, Santiago Padrós and Diego Toigo have repeated the icefall Solo per un altro Hashtag avoiding the first mixed pitch. This is perhaps the first time that this pearl of the Dolomites has been climbed entirely on ice.

Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayr have climbed Saxofon, a possible new ice and mixed climb above the classic La Piovra icefall in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites.

American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.

Swiss mountaineer Simon Chatelan reports about his new mixed route From Kirov with Love (200m, M9), established solo and then freed with Nicolas Jaquet.

Czech climber Lucie Hrozová has repeated Digital Crack, the famous 8a freed by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen above Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi in the Mont Blanc massif.