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23.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tamara Lunger continues K2 winter expedition

South Tyrolean mountaineer Tamara Lunger has announced she will continue her attempt to climb K2 in winter.

22.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Brittany Goris climbs 8b+ trad with East Coast Fist Bump

American climber Brittany Goris has repeated East Coast Fist Bump, an 8b+ trad climb at Flagstaff, Arizona.

21.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Future of rock climbing at stake at Grampians, Australia

Numerous crags at the Grampians are at risk of closure. The Australian Climbing Association Victoria is asking climbers to submit their thoughts by Sunday 24 January 2021 to the government agency Parks Victoria against the plans which, if adopted, would ban access to about 80% of the area’s rock climbs and almost completely ban bouldering altogether.

21.01.2021 by Florian Riegler in Climbing

Florian Riegler frees Skinwalker, difficult crack climb above Bozen, Italy

South Tyrolean climber Florian Riegler has made the first ascent of Skinwalker, a difficult single-pitch trad climb on the outskirts of Bolzano.

20.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Solenne Piret inspirational on Onde de Choc at Fontainebleau

On Saturday 9 January 2021 French paraclimber Solenne Piret made a remarkable ascent of Onde de Choc, a 7B boulder problem at Fontainebleau.

20.01.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Farewell to Cesare Maestri

Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.

19.01.2021 by Simon Chatelan in Alpinism

Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet

On the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet have established the mixed climb Narsil (M10 WI5+). Chatelan reports.

18.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen

Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja has reported that he climbed K2 in winter without the use of supplementary oxygen.

18.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sorejina at Sennesspitze in the Dolomites climbed by Manuel and Simon Gietl

South Tyrolean alpinists Simon and Manuel Gietl have added a new mixed climb to Sennesspitze (Muntejela de Sénes) in the Dolomites by establishing Sorejina (WI5+, M6, 50°, 700m).

17.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2, all 10 summiters of historic first winter ascent safely back in base camp

All ten Nepalese mountaineers who climbed K2 for the first time in winter yesterday have returned safely to base camp. The news was announced by expedition leader Chhang Dawa Sherpa.

16.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sergi Mingote perishes on K2

Spanish mountaineer Sergi Mingote died earlier today while descending from K2. The Catalan mountaineer was descending from Camp 1 to Advanced Base Camp when he fell to his death.

16.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent

Today, Saturday 16 January 2021 at 16:58 local time, a team of 10 Nepalese mountaineers completed the highly coveted first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world and the last 8000er to be climbed in the coldest season. News of the successful summit was provided by Chhang Dawa Sherpa from K2 Base Camp. The climbers who summited are: Nirmal Purja, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Mingma G, Dawa Tenjin Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa and Sona Sherpa.

15.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest

The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with Camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.

14.01.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites

Etienne Bernard, the 27-year-old ski instructor, mountain guide and mountaineer from Val di Fassa, perished in an avalanche yesterday on Mount Pordoi (Dolomites, Italy).

14.01.2021 by Stefan Nestler in Alpinism

K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?

German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.

13.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Martin Stráník solves Teorie Tygra 8B+ beneath heavy snowfall at Vesec

Beneath a heavy snowfall Czech rock climber Martin Stráník has made the first ascent of Teorie Tygra, an 8B+ boulder problem at Vesec in the Czech Republic.

12.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Video: Dave Macleod winter climbing in Scotland

The video of Dave Macleod making the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, followed by two other first winter ascents in the Glen Coe area of Scotland.

12.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel

German climbers Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel have established Space Force (8a+/230m) a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.

12.01.2021 by Pemba Sharwa Sherpa in Alpinism

Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team

The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting insight into the life of the young Sherpa.

11.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Ghisolfi establishes Erebor, at 9b/+ the hardest climb in Italy

Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Erebor at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+, this is currently the most difficult sport climb in Italy.




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