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Sports climbing in Italy
Introduction
Napoleonica  1 2
Costiera  1 2
Getting there
Take the A4 Venice - Trieste motorway which finishes at Trieste. Continue along the dual carriageway and exit shortly afterwards following signs for "Prosecco". Turn left at the first crossroad and left again at the next junction. Turn right 40m after this following signs for "Santuario di Monte Grisa". Drive past the sanctuary (splendid views over Trieste) on your left and continue to the next crossroad. A dead-end street leads left via a fountain to the crag. Park opposite the restaurant, 200m before the fountain. Although you may have to walk a bit further, it is unlikely that your car will get broken into here.

The sectors at Napoleonica:

1 Above Napoleonica
2 Napoleonica
3 The towers beneath Napoleonica
4 Grotta del cane or Fontana
5 Olimpo
6 Luna Park
7 Parallele
8 Mani di fatima

1 Above Napoleonica
Nice new sector with 8 routes from 6b - 7c. White slabs with small edges. Not sheltered from the Bora, perfect for spring or autumn.
Access: from the fountain take the path that leads from away from it. Turn right at the cairn (5 mins) following the grassy track to the crag.


2 Napoleonica
Napoleonica is divided up into many smaller sectors and these combined contain routes from 4a - 8b, desperate boulder problems and traverses up to 8a. This historic crag has long been the testing ground for the locals and has seen sport climbing in all its stages, from pegs and bolts to chipped and resined holds.

Good footwork and stamina are essential, but since Napoleonica has something for everyone, a visit here is obligatory.
Recommended routes: Cico ,Texi 4c, BananaRama 5c/6a, Lo Scudo 6c+, Hells Bells 7b+, Atmosfera Zero, Poker D'assi 7c, Orcobaleno 8a and Mud Club 8a.
Climbing is possible beneath the central sector if it rains slightly.


3 The towers beneath Napoleonica
Three towers beneath Napoleonica are reached via abseil. Good slab climbing in a seemingly isolated position. 20 routes from 6a - 7a+.
60/70m ropes recommended.

4 Grotta del cane or Fontana
Small cave with 13 routes 6b - 8a+. Powerful and technical routes, hard to on-sight.
Recommended routes: la Fontana 6c, Scorpions 7b, Oklaoma 7c, Martedì Grasso 8a e Skywalker 8a+.
Access: opposite the fountain a path leads from the hand rail down towards the sea (3 mins).


5 Olimpo
7 great routes characterised by edges and small pockets - the view is great, too.
Access: from the Grotta del cane continue right for another 5 minutes.


6 Luna Park
Another 7 fingery routes from 4c - 7b. Slabs and corners.
Access: as for Mani di Fatima and continue past 'Parallele' ( 5 mins), alternatively continue from Olimpo for 5 minutes.

rock climbing in Italy, Napoleonica
The road that leads to the central section of Napoleonica




bouldering in Italy
Bouldering at Napoleonica


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