Beneath some of the Dolomites finest mountains, the massive Sella and the imposing Pordoi, lies Pian Schiavaneis, a seemingly insignificant boulder compared to its mighty neighbours. Yet Pian Schiavaneis is anything but insignificant. It has evolved into the Dolomites' crucible of modern sports climbing, a playground for all and testing ground for the best.
Its friable overhanging limestone has been chipped, glued and drilled to sculpt routes of all grades, where power and stamina are essential and never enough. Thankfully a host of easier routes have recently been created, adding to Pian Schiavaneis' ever increasing popularity.
If you are after an alternative to the Dolomites' classics or, why not, a picnic next to some hungry marmots, be sure to stop off here.
Best time of year
Pian Schiavaneis faces SSE and is situated at 2000m. Climbing is possible all year round, but summer afternoons are best. It is possible to climb if it rains but the crag seeps after extended periods of rain.
Bruno Pederiva thinking about
"Pensavo peggio" 6c
Food & Accommodation
There are plenty of hotels, B&B's, camping grounds, supermarkets and nightlife in the Val di Fassa.
Nearby Val Gardena, on the other side of Passo Sella, is also a great place to stay.
Useful telephone numbers
Rifugio Pian Schiavaneis 0462 - 601338
Rifugio Monti Pallidi 0462 - 601337
Apt Canazei 0462 - 301145
Apt Val Gardena 0471-796328-793046-795122
Camping Canazei 0462 - 601660
Camping Campitello 0462 - 750502
Weather forecast Trentino www.provincia.tn.it/meteo
"Val di Fassa climbing" by Renato Bernard.
A 60m rope and a set of quickdraws. All routes are well bolted thanks to the locals and Renato Bernard, a Mountain Guide, who supplied us with the updates.
The crag - © F.Tremolada
Click to enlarge
From Val Gardena drive to Passo Sella and continue down to the Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi refuges. Leave the car in the car park. From Val di Fassa drive out of Canazei towards Passo Pordoi, turn left for Passo Sella and continue to the refuges.
Walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins.