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by Andrea Gennari Daneri
Although photos of this fantastic limestone crag have been published in just about every climbing magazine, few people go to Grotti. You are quite likely to be the only climbers there, free to choose from the 70 routes on offer.

Go when you're on top form, because the pockets are sharp and there aren't many intermediate holds to pull on. Two days on and one day off will guarantee aching joints and trashed fingers!

The Bit Bit sector is good for hard on-sights, but don't miss out on the routes in the sectors Iniziazione and Requiem.

Getting there
Grotti lies roughly 100km NNE of Rome. Drive to Rieti if coming from the north . From here follow signs for Aquila and turn right immediately for the Valle del Salto to arrive at Grotti after 8km. Park discreetly on the left near a hunting shop before entering this small village. From here walk left past a chicken pen up to the crag (10mins).
If you come from the south leave the A24 at the exit for Valle del Salto and follow signs for Rieti to Grotti.

Best Time of Year
It gets hot in Grotti, so go in winter, late autumn or early spring.
It is possible to climb in light rain.

Food and Accommodation
There are no campsites nearby. If you're lucky enough to own a camper you can spend the night in Piazza delle Feste, 100m from the center of Grotti. The other alternative is to find a cheap room in nearby Rieti.

The most updated guidebook is "Arrampicare in Abruzzo" by Sergio Di Renzo. It covers Grotti and all the other main climbing areas in this region.

Magnificent pocketed limestone. The left-hand sector transforms into conglomerate limestone. Well-placed fixed resin bolts ensure you won't pick up too many air miles!

Climbing at Grotti
The characteristic streaked limestone
photo A. Lamberti
map of Grotti

T= Technical
C= Cruxy
S= Sustained
B= Bouldery
1 Snoby 5a T
2 Il nervoso 5a T
3 Gladio 6a C
4 Gladiatori 6b C
5 Senza nome (via expo) 6b+ C
6 Fallo con il dito nel buco 7c+ S
7 La metà oscura 8a B
8 Desert storm 7c+ S
9 Reve dun amour 7c S
10 Iniziazione 7b S
11 Balla coi buchi 7c S
12 Buco ben fatto 7b+ C
13 Cazzo di pietra 7c+ S
14 Boysscraus 7c B
15 Son piccole queste reglettes 7a+ S
16 El grinta 6c S
17 Nome segreto 7a+ C
18 Grigio pirla 7a+ S
19 Blob il fluido che uccide 7a+ S
20 Ouzo power 7b+ S
21 Bip Bip 7c S
22 Lupo de lupi 8a S
23 Terima Kasih 7a S
24 Eu 7c+ S
25 Ridi mò 8b S
26 Progetto
27 Kingston 7c+ C
28 Seicippi 7b+ T
29 Pancho cherubino 7c T
30 Pink rabbit 8a T
31 Fatos 7c+ S
32 Assalto frontale 8a+ C
33 L 8a+ C
34 La zona morta 8a S
35 Umore e depressione 7c+ S
36 Turbolenze overadali 7b S
37 Frustami 7b B
39 La mano rossa 8a S
40 Il truffatore 7b S
41 Senza tregua 7c S
42 Gran trocadero 7c S
43 Requiem 7b+ S
44 Senza nome 7a C
45 Nirvana 8b C
46 Senza nome 6c T
47 Viva Gimbo 7a S
48 Never mind 6c+ S
49 Acid jazz 7b C
50 Il corpo di Cristo 7b B
51 Rigurgito 7c+ S
52 Cattivi di natura NL
53 Erotica 8a+ C
54 Dinamite Bla 6c+ B
55 Nonna Papera 7a+ T
56 La 313 7b B
57 Gambadilegno 7a+ T
58 Ak 47 7b B
59 Filo Sganga 7c+ C
60 Dollari Paperi NL
61 Progetto
62 Qui Quo Qua 8b B
63 Progetto
64 La riscossa dei Bassotti 8a S
65 LIspettore Manetta 7c S
66 Usura NL
67 Alba di ghiaccio 6b+ S
68 Cristalli dombra NL
69 Il respiro del vento 7a+ S
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