|Although photos of this fantastic limestone crag have been published in just about every climbing magazine, few people go to Grotti. You are quite likely to be the only climbers there, free to choose from the 70 routes on offer.
Go when you're on top form, because the pockets are sharp and there aren't many intermediate holds to pull on. Two days on and one day off will guarantee aching joints and trashed fingers!
The Bit Bit sector is good for hard on-sights, but don't miss out on the routes in the sectors Iniziazione and Requiem.
Grotti lies roughly 100km NNE of Rome. Drive to Rieti if coming from the north . From here follow signs for Aquila and turn right immediately for the Valle del Salto to arrive at Grotti after 8km. Park discreetly on the left near a hunting shop before entering this small village. From here walk left past a chicken pen up to the crag (10mins).
If you come from the south leave the A24 at the exit for Valle del Salto and follow signs for Rieti to Grotti.
Best Time of Year
It gets hot in Grotti, so go in winter, late autumn or early spring.
It is possible to climb in light rain.
Food and Accommodation
There are no campsites nearby. If you're lucky enough to own a camper you can spend the night in Piazza delle Feste, 100m from the center of Grotti. The other alternative is to find a cheap room in nearby Rieti.
The most updated guidebook is "Arrampicare in Abruzzo" by Sergio Di Renzo. It covers Grotti and all the other main climbing areas in this region.
Magnificent pocketed limestone. The left-hand sector transforms into conglomerate limestone. Well-placed fixed resin bolts ensure you won't pick up too many air miles!