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    Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
    12.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Events

    Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos

    Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.

    Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team
    07.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team

    Alpinists Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher from Austria have made a three-day alpine style ascent of a previously unclimbed 6050m peak in the Indian Himalaya.

    Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
    06.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison

    The Americans Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have carried out the first integral ski descent of Lhotse (8516m) in the Himalaya, skiing directly off the summit down to Camp 2 at 6400 meters.

    Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
    04.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem

    In the Mont Blanc massif the Spanish mountaineers Roger Cararach Soler, Marc Toralles and Bru Busom repeated the Japanese Couloir, the so-called 'Couloir central' that splits the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The three repeated the climb in 24 hours, without bivouacs, and at the start of the season.

    Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
    28.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes

    Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.

    Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians
    27.09.2018 by Luca Vallata in Alpinism

    Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians

    At the end of August 2018 Davide Limongi, Federico Martinelli, Enrico Mosetti, Federico Secchi and Luca Vallata climbed the East Ridge of Chareze Ri North in the Rangtik valley in the Zanskar area of India. Climbed alpine style with one bivouac, Jullay Temù (1000m, 70° ice, V + rock) reaches the north summit at5950m. Due to the onset of darkness and subsequent bad weather the main summit was not reached. Luca Vallata reports

    Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
    26.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif

    Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).

    Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
    24.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co

    Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.

    Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
    20.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours

    Interview with Italy’s François Cazzanelli who on 12 September 2018 teamed up with Switzerland’s Andreas Steindl to climb all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16 hours and 4 minutes.

    La Sportiva 90th anniversary book wins best corporate monographs 2018
    20.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Books-press

    La Sportiva 90th anniversary book wins best corporate monographs 2018

    The book 'La Sportiva 90th, a history of alpinism, passion, innovation' has won the 2018 OMI award for the best corporate monograph went to La Sportiva for its innovative approach and storytelling capacity.

    Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
    18.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini

    The Italian alpine guides Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas Franchini have climbed Huascarán Norte, the highest mountain in Peru, as part of their Los Picos 6500 project which aims to climb the 16 highest peaks of the South American Andes.

    Devil's Paw in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden climb West Face
    18.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Devil's Paw in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden climb West Face

    Mountain climbing in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden have made the first ascent of Shaa Téix’i (1300m, 5.11a) up the West Face of the Devils Paw, Juneau Ice Cap.

    Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
    14.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps

    French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz has completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.

    Mont Blanc: fire ravages Grands Montets cable car
    12.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Mont Blanc: fire ravages Grands Montets cable car

    The Grands Montets cable car middle station caught fire yesterday afternoon. While no one was injured, the fire has caused significant damages.

    New Zealand: another mixed climb up Aoraki / Mount Cook
    11.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    New Zealand: another mixed climb up Aoraki / Mount Cook

    Mountaineers Caleb Jennings and Kim Ladiges have made the first ascent of Pilgrim, a new mixed climb up the south face of Aoraki / Mt Cook (3,764 m) in New Zealand.

    Tom Belz summits Kilimanjaro on route towards personal growth
    07.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Tom Belz summits Kilimanjaro on route towards personal growth

    On 9 August 2018 the disabled mountaineer Tom Belz reached the summit of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, without a leg and on crutches. An adventure to understand his personal limits but above all to encourage others to push beyone their personal boundaries.

    Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
    06.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

    Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview

    Interview with Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen after the ascent, carried out with Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone, of Latok I via the north and south face. The three were only the second team to reach the summit of the 7,145m high mountain in Pakistan’s Karakorum after the 1979 first ascent.

    Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
    05.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours

    On Monday 27 August 2018 the 29-year-old Swiss mountain guide Andreas Steindl ascended and descended the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge at breakneck speed, requiring 3 hours, 59 minutes and 52 seconds for the round-trip from Zermatt.

    Pilots warn drones endanger rescue helicopter safety
    02.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Pilots warn drones endanger rescue helicopter safety

    Marco Kostner, pilot of the Aiut Alpin Dolomites, warns of the dangers rescue helicopters face due to reckless use of drones in the mountains.

    Monte Rosa Express clocked up by Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli
    31.08.2018 by Denis Trento in Alpinism

    Monte Rosa Express clocked up by Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli

    Denis Trento talks about his fast raid in the Monte Rosa massif together with Robert Antonioli across the peaks Lyskamm, Colle del Lys, Punta Dufour and Punta Zumstein.

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