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Maurizio Oviglia

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Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters
03.10.2014 by Planetmountain

Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters

Maurizio Oviglia dedicates two new routes in Sardinia to his daughters, Kawaii, climbed with his daughter Elena on the Placche dell'Elefante in Sarrabus and Sweet Helen, climbed with Cecilia Marchi and dedicated to their daughter Elena, on the Figlia di Guglia at Cala Goloritzè, Baunei. A chance to talk about the extent to which a passion for climbing may (or may not) be passed on to children.

Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
22.07.2014 by Maurizio Oviglia

Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues

The fabulous world of Babette, or rather Mont Blanc's marvelous granite climbing, starting from Envers des Aiguilles. Interview with Michel Piola, one of the most prolific alpinists in the world who, in more than 30 years of activity, has left an indelible mark on climbing. His routes are considered priceless, thanks to their intrinsic beauty and the style of their first ascent, above all in the Mont Blanc massif where even today the climbs are considered an important test for all generations of alpinists. In this rare interview with Maurizio Oviglia, Piola talks about his climbing and his continuous search for unclimbed lines.

The other, unusual climbing in Greece. By Maurizio Oviglia
11.06.2014 by Maurizio Oviglia

The other, unusual climbing in Greece. By Maurizio Oviglia

A climbing trip off the beaten path in Greece, between Epirus and Thessaly.

Climbing in Sardinia news: Supramonte
20.05.2014 by Maurizio Oviglia

Climbing in Sardinia news: Supramonte

May update by Maurizio Oviglia about the latest climbing news from Sardinia: three big new routes in the Supramonte massif.

Orosei and the climbing in Sardinia
07.04.2014 by Maurizio Oviglia

Orosei and the climbing in Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia introduces the rock climbing around the village of Orosei in Sardinia.

Punta A Biciartula and Bavella climbing in Corsica
24.03.2014 by Maurizio Oviglia

Punta A Biciartula and Bavella climbing in Corsica

Maurizio Oviglia reveals Punta A Biciartula at Bavella, Corsica; pure pleasure climbing up some of the most beautiful and unique granite in the world.

Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
20.02.2014 by Maurizio Oviglia

Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi

At the end of January and the start of February 2014 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent, and first free ascent, of Escalador Selvatico (7c+ max, 7a+ oblig, 630m) up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuela.

Climbing in Sardinia, trad and new multi-pitches
21.01.2014 by Maurizio Oviglia

Climbing in Sardinia, trad and new multi-pitches

A January update by Maurizio Oviglia about the latest climbing news from Sardinia. This month: trad climbing at Regno di Onan, Capo Pecora, the Supramonte di Urzulei with the new route Sos de Urthullè and Villacidro with the new climb Dream Catcher on Torre Cinzia.

Hydra at Capo Pecora in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
15.01.2014 by Maurizio Oviglia

Hydra at Capo Pecora in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia

Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Hydra, the latest route to be added to the trad climbing area Capo Pecora in Sardinia.

Climbing in Sardinia (Isili and Lanaitto) / December 2013 by Maurizio Oviglia
28.12.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Climbing in Sardinia (Isili and Lanaitto) / December 2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Maurizio Oviglia provides another climbing news update from Sardinia. In this report: Isili and Lanaitto (Oliena).

Sardinia: Doloverre di Surtana, 4 new rock climbs
11.12.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Sardinia: Doloverre di Surtana, 4 new rock climbs

Maurizio Oviglia covers the latest news about Doloverre di Surtana, the most popular multi-pitch climbing area in Sardinia.

Climbing in Sardinia: October update by Maurizio Oviglia
13.11.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Climbing in Sardinia: October update by Maurizio Oviglia

The October climbing in Sardinia report provided by Maurizio Oviglia: Capo Pecora, Jurassic Park and a series of new modern multi-pitch rock climbs.

Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia
11.11.2013 by Planetmountain

Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia introduces "Marinaio di foresta" (190m, 6a+ max, 5c obbl.) a new climb established in October 2013 together with Cecilia Marchi and Giorgio Caddeo up the beautiful Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, sea stack (Baunei, Sardinia).

Valle dell'Orco short climbs news: Sitting Bull and Dado
01.10.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Valle dell'Orco short climbs news: Sitting Bull and Dado

The second news report from Italy's Orco Valley by Maurizio Oviglia: the crags Sitting Bull and Dado that offer a interesting mix of sport climbing, trad and aid.

Valle dell'Orco new rock climbs
24.09.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Valle dell'Orco new rock climbs

Maurizio Oviglia and Massimiliano Celano introduce the new cliff Altrolato and its routes on the dark side of the Orco valley.

First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
13.09.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif

Turkish climbers Zorbey Aktuyun and Evren Kirazlı have carried out the the first repeat of Üç Muz (650m, 8a), the route first climbed in 2005 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan up the East Face of Demirkazik, Ala Daglar, Turkey.

A Fish as a present. Attraverso il Pesce by Maurizio Oviglia
11.09.2013 by Planetmountain

A Fish as a present. Attraverso il Pesce by Maurizio Oviglia

A legendary rock climb as a birthday present: via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route up the South Face of Marmolada. A pretext to remember once again that climbing and alpinism are a never ending evolution between dreams and reality.

New rock climb in Valle dell' Orco
09.08.2013 by Planetmountain

New rock climb in Valle dell' Orco

Maurizio Oviglia introduces Rataplan (175m, 7a+ max (6b obligatory) /RS2/I), a new multi-pitch climb first ascended together with Damiano Ceresa on 1 August and freed a few days later with with Cecilia Marchi up the Parete della Grande Ala, Chiapili di Sotto, Valle dell'Orco in Italy.

Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival by Maurizio Oviglia
10.07.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival by Maurizio Oviglia

The 35th International Outdoor Sport Festival took place from 28 June to 2 July in the small village of Kemaliye in Central-Eastern Turkey, on the banks of the beautiful limestone canyon formed by the river Euphrates.

Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing
17.06.2013 by Planetmountain

Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing

In praise of climbing and nature's beauty. This is Jeef, the route first ascended in 1992 by the French brothers François & Arnaud Petit on Punta U Corbu in Bavella (Corsica). A small masterpiece, examined by Maurizio Oviglia and Arnaud Petit.

Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
10.06.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia

On 31 May 2013, 33 years after its first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic route in southern Sardinia. Originally three pitches long, the route now offers six (plus two traverses) to reach the top of beautiful Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi), one of the characteristic peaks in Sardinia.

Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03.06.2013 by Planetmountain

Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori

Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established ground-up from on 14/16 and 18 May 2013 and then redpointed on 20/05/2013. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.

Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
24.05.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia

Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.

  Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
06.05.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later

30 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia returns to "Anche gli eroi hanno paura - Even heroes feel fear" the route first ascended by Alessandro Cattaneo, Beppe Domenichelli, Mondo Liggi, Cecilia Marchi and Bruno Poddesuin in Sardinia's Sette Fratelli massif in 1983 and freed by Oviglia and Roberto Monchino in 1985. This is a pleasant way to remember (in perspective) how we were in the past and also look forward into the future.

New trad climbs at Garibaldi in Sardinia
17.04.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

New trad climbs at Garibaldi in Sardinia

Three new trad routes at the Garibaldi in south-east Sardinia, first ascended by Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia.

Sardinia's needles: two rock climbs by Maurizio Oviglia
04.04.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Sardinia's needles: two rock climbs by Maurizio Oviglia

The report by Maurizio Oviglia about two beautiful needles in Sardinia: the recently restored Dillosauro 6b+, first climbed by Enzo Lecis in 1995 and Sinfonia del mulino bianco, the new route established together with Giorgio Caddeo above Baunei.

Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
25.02.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower

Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful towers in Italy and further afield. This monolith was climbed for the first time in 1981 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla and Alessandro Gogna via Sinfonia dei mulini a vento and this route remained untouched.

Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia
19.02.2013 by Planetmountain

Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia

Le Grand Mammut (6a+, 140m) by Bruno Fonnesu and Acciughe & Bottarga (6a, 160m) by Davide Lagomarsino and Maurizio Oviglia: two new multi-pitch rock climbs on the Masua sea cliffs in Sardinia.

The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
29.01.2013 by Planetmountain

The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.

The evolution of free climbing
23.12.2012 by Maurizio Oviglia

The evolution of free climbing

Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.

Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area
19.11.2012 by Maurizio Oviglia

Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.

Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14.11.2012 by Maurizio Oviglia

Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb

Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same place as the original ones.

Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
12.11.2012 by Maurizio Oviglia

Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu

Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.

Water and rock 2012, the Sardinian climbing meeting at Roccadoria Monteleone
10.10.2012 by Maurizio Oviglia

Water and rock 2012, the Sardinian climbing meeting at Roccadoria Monteleone

The climbing meeting "L'acqua e la roccia" will take place on 20 and 21 October 2012 at Roccadoria Monteleone, Sardinia.

Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
06.09.2012 by Maurizio Oviglia

Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview

Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.

Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival - rock climbing in Turkey
20.07.2012 by Planetmountain

Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival - rock climbing in Turkey

The report by Maurizio Oviglia about the Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival, the largest outdoor activity meeting in Turkey in an area which has all the makings of an Asian Verdon.

Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori
25.05.2012 by Maurizio Oviglia

Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori

At the start of May 2012 in Corsica's Bavella massif the Italians Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia made the first ascent of Vecchia Felpa on Punta U Peru (190m, 7c max /RS2/I) while Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori made the firts ascent of Tafunata Galattica up the Contrafforti di Punta A Muvra (185m, 7b+ max 1 section FB7B/RS2/I). The route topo, report, team spirit and the fascinating Bavella by Maurizio Oviglia.

Sintomi strani, new climb in Corsica by Della Bordella and Bacci
14.04.2012 by Planetmountain

Sintomi strani, new climb in Corsica by Della Bordella and Bacci

In the Bavella mountain range in Corsica Matteo della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Sintomi strani and have repeated De Rerum Natura, established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia.

Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
25.11.2011 by Planetmountain

Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia

On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.

Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
11.11.2011 by Planetmountain

Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China

From 26 to 30 October 2011 the 10th Petzl Rock Trip took place in Getu Valley, China. Many of the world's best climbers took part in the event dedicated to climbing and partying. Gabriele Moroni from Italy managed to free a new 9a while Dani Andrada from Spain freed his impressive multi-pitch through the Great Arch. The full report by Maurizio Oviglia.

Trad climbing at Capo Pecora, Sardinia
06.09.2011 by Maurizio Oviglia

Trad climbing at Capo Pecora, Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia introduces a new seaside trad climbing paradise: 25 routes from 5a to 7a at Capo Pecora in Sardinia.

Climbing in Sardinia: three new crags in the south
15.06.2011 by Planetmountain

Climbing in Sardinia: three new crags in the south

Maurizio Oviglia introduces three new crags in Southern Sardinia: Cave of dreams, Villasimius e Broadway

Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo
25.05.2011 by Planetmountain

Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo

On 31/03 and 01/04/2011 Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori completed the first ascent of Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory). The route had previously been started by Larcher, Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia up the NE Face of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).

Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
20.07.2010 by Planetmountain

Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia

On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia

Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16.06.2010 by Planetmountain

Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!

Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.

De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
06.05.2010 by Planetmountain

De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica

On 16 April Maurizio Oviglia and Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of De rerum natura (230m, 7c max, 7a obbl, /RS2+/II) on Punta u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica.

Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
10.11.2009 by Maurizio Oviglia

Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday

45 year old Arthur Kubista has made the first ascent of Der lange Atem 9a+ at Schattenreich, Höllental, Austria. Maurizio Oviglia recounts this latest ascent of one of the strongest and least known Austrian climbers of all times.

Corsica rock climbing
25.09.2009 by Maurizio Oviglia

Corsica rock climbing

A selection of some of the best multi-pitch rock climbs in Corsica, by Maurizio Oviglia. Routes in the Bavella, Val Restonica and Valle du Tavignano.

Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
02.07.2009 by PlanetMountain

Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing

On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.

Valle dell'Orco, new routes on Sergent
12.11.2008 by Planetmountain

Valle dell'Orco, new routes on Sergent

At the end of September and the start of October Maurizio Oviglia, Sara Oviglia, Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti completed two new multi-pitch routes on the Sergent rock face in Valle dell'Orco. They then added two single pitches to the wall and another to the Dado.

Mezzogiorno di fuoco in Sardinia by Rolando Larcher
31.05.2007 by Planetmountain

Mezzogiorno di fuoco in Sardinia by Rolando Larcher

On 6 May Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of Mezzogiorno di fuoco (270m, 8b max, 7c obligatory) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia. The route had been established by Larcher together with Maurizio Oviglia and Roberto Vigiani in 2006.

UP European Climbing report
19.03.2007 by Planetmountain

UP European Climbing report

The fourth edition of UP - European Climbing report edited by Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti and published by Versante Sud will go to press on 20 March.

Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
06.11.2006 by PlanetMountain

Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia

During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.

'La cruna dell'ago' free
07.11.2005 by Andrea Giorda

'La cruna dell'ago' free

On 23 September Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Andrea Giorda, made the first free ascent of their "La cruna dell'ago" on the SE face Ancesieu (1885m, Vallone di Forzo, Gran Paradiso).

Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
04.08.2005 by Maurizio Oviglia

Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan

In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m); and “Mezza luna nascente” (270 m, 7c max, 7a+ obl.) on the east face of Parmakkaya (2880m).

Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti
29.09.2004 by Maurizio Oviglia

Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti

Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti have made the first ascent of "Enfant de sable" 7a max, 6c obl., on the south face of Jbel Tramazine, High Atlas, Morocco.

Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan rock Morocco
11.11.2003 by Maurizio Oviglia

Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan rock Morocco

From 6 - 27 October 2003 the Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Michele Paissan and Maurizio Oviglia established Sul filo della notte (7c+ max; 7b obl) in the Taghia gorge, High Atlas, Morocco.

Rock: new routes in Sardinia
19.03.2003 by Maurizio Oviglia

Rock: new routes in Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia continues to forge new routes in Sardinia.

Sard Grit, clean climbing in Sardinia
01.06.2001 by Maurizio Oviglia

Sard Grit, clean climbing in Sardinia

Inspired by the British "Hard grit" ethic, Maurizio Oviglia discovers and climbs new routes on basalt seacliff together with Simone Sarti on island just off Sardinia

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