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Related news - Maurizio Oviglia
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
30 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia returns to "Anche gli eroi hanno paura - Even heroes feel fear" the route first ascended by Alessandro Cattaneo, Beppe Domenichelli, Mondo Liggi, Cecilia Marchi and Bruno Poddesuin in Sardinia's Sette Fratelli massif in 1983 and freed by Oviglia and Roberto Monchino in 1985. This is a pleasant way to remember (in perspective) how we were in the past and also look forward into the future.
New trad climbs at Garibaldi in Sardinia
Three new trad routes at the Garibaldi in south-east Sardinia, first ascended by Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia.
Sardinia's needles: two rock climbs by Maurizio Oviglia
The report by Maurizio Oviglia about two beautiful needles in Sardinia: the recently restored Dillosauro 6b+, first climbed by Enzo Lecis in 1995 and Sinfonia del mulino bianco, the new route established together with Giorgio Caddeo above Baunei.
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful towers in Italy and further afield. This monolith was climbed for the first time in 1981 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla and Alessandro Gogna via Sinfonia dei mulini a vento and this route remained untouched.
Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia
Le Grand Mammut (6a+, 140m) by Bruno Fonnesu and Acciughe & Bottarga (6a, 160m) by Davide Lagomarsino and Maurizio Oviglia: two new multi-pitch rock climbs on the Masua sea cliffs in Sardinia.
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same place as the original ones.
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
Water and rock 2012, the Sardinian climbing meeting at Roccadoria Monteleone
The climbing meeting "L'acqua e la roccia" will take place on 20 and 21 October 2012 at Roccadoria Monteleone, Sardinia.
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.
Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival - rock climbing in Turkey
The report by Maurizio Oviglia about the Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival, the largest outdoor activity meeting in Turkey in an area which has all the makings of an Asian Verdon.
Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori
At the start of May 2012 in Corsica's Bavella massif the Italians Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia made the first ascent of Vecchia Felpa on Punta U Peru (190m, 7c max /RS2/I) while Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori made the firts ascent of Tafunata Galattica up the Contrafforti di Punta A Muvra (185m, 7b+ max 1 section FB7B/RS2/I). The route topo, report, team spirit and the fascinating Bavella by Maurizio Oviglia.
Sintomi strani, new climb in Corsica by Della Bordella and Bacci
In the Bavella mountain range in Corsica Matteo della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Sintomi strani and have repeated De Rerum Natura, established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia.
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
From 26 to 30 October 2011 the 10th Petzl Rock Trip took place in Gétû Valley, China. Many of the world's best climbers took part in the event dedicated to climbing and partying. Gabriele Moroni from Italy managed to free a new 9a while Dani Andrada from Spain freed his impressive multi-pitch through the Great Arch. The full report by Maurizio Oviglia.
Trad climbing at Capo Pecora, Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a new seaside trad climbing paradise: 25 routes from 5a to 7a at Capo Pecora in Sardinia.
Climbing in Sardinia: three new crags in the south
Maurizio Oviglia introduces three new crags in Southern Sardinia: Cave of dreams, Villasimius e Broadway
Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo
On 31/03 and 01/04/2011 Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori completed the first ascent of Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory). The route had previously been started by Larcher, Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia up the NE Face of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
On 16 April Maurizio Oviglia and Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of De rerum natura (230m, 7c max, 7a obbl, /RS2+/II) on Punta u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica.
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
45 year old Arthur Kubista has made the first ascent of Der lange Atem 9a+ at Schattenreich, Höllental, Austria. Maurizio Oviglia recounts this latest ascent of one of the strongest and least known Austrian climbers of all times.
Corsica rock climbing
A selection of some of the best multi-pitch rock climbs in Corsica, by Maurizio Oviglia. Routes in the Bavella, Val Restonica and Valle du Tavignano.
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.
Valle dell'Orco, new routes on Sergent
At the end of September and the start of October Maurizio Oviglia, Sara Oviglia, Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti completed two new multi-pitch routes on the Sergent rock face in Valle dell'Orco. They then added two single pitches to the wall and another to the Dado.
Mezzogiorno di fuoco in Sardinia by Rolando Larcher
On 6 May Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of Mezzogiorno di fuoco (270m, 8b max, 7c obligatory) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia. The route had been established by Larcher together with Maurizio Oviglia and Roberto Vigiani in 2006.
UP European Climbing report
The fourth edition of UP - European Climbing report edited by Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti and published by Versante Sud will go to press on 20 March.
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.
'La cruna dell'ago' free
On 23 September Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Andrea Giorda, made the first free ascent of their "La cruna dell'ago" on the SE face Ancesieu (1885m, Vallone di Forzo, Gran Paradiso).
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m); and “Mezza luna nascente” (270 m, 7c max, 7a+ obl.) on the east face of Parmakkaya (2880m).
Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti
Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti have made the first ascent of "Enfant de sable" 7a max, 6c obl., on the south face of Jbel Tramazine, High Atlas, Morocco.
Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan rock Morocco
From 6 - 27 October 2003 the Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Michele Paissan and Maurizio Oviglia established Sul filo della notte (7c+ max; 7b obl) in the Taghia gorge, High Atlas, Morocco.
Rock: new routes in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia continues to forge new routes in Sardinia.
Sard Grit, clean climbing in Sardinia
Inspired by the British "Hard grit" ethic, Maurizio Oviglia discovers and climbs new routes on basalt seacliff together with Simone Sarti on island just off Sardinia
