Related news - Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed by Rolando Larcher and "Conosci te stesso?" (E7 6c or 8a), a trad pitch first ascended by Larcher.
Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch rock climb together with Rolando Larcher and Erik Svab.
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascent of 50 anni son volati, 25 regalati! (215m, 8a+ max, 7b obl.), a new rock climb established to celebrate his first 50 years together with Herman Zanetti, Luca Giupponi and Alessandro Larcher up the East Face Monte Fibbion (Campa Group, Brenta Dolomites).
Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi, during five days from November 2013 to March 2015, made the first ascent of L'Ora del Garda (355m, 8a max, 7b+ obligatory), a challenging and beautiful new route up Mandrea Laghel (Arco, Sarca Valley, Italy). On 24/03/2015 the two made the route's first free ascent. The report by the first ascentionists.
41 alpinists have been selected for the "Big List” of the Grignetta d'Oro, the Italian mountaineering award that goes to the Italian mountaineer whose climbs in 2013 and 2014 have most left their mark. The award will be celebrated on Friday 22 May at Lecco.
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascents, carried out together with Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori, of three new multi-pitch rock climbs: Free Frasassi (85m, 7b+) and Decrescita Obbligata (130m, 7c+) at Gola di Frasassi (An), and Benvenuti al Sud (215m, 7a+), Monte Pertuso (Amalfi coast), Italy.
The report by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori about the first ascent of Happy Ledge (335m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory), a new rock climb in the beautiful Val Trementina, a little jewel in the Paganella crown: Verdon-like, wild and little-known.
On 13 March Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi made the first free ascent and first winter ascent of Follie Belliche (330m, 7b+ max, 6c+ obl.), the route they established on 30/08 and 21/09/2013 up Cima Ceremana (Lagorai, Dolomites). The report by Rolando Larcher.
At the end of January and the start of February 2014 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent, and first free ascent, of Escalador Selvatico (7c+ max, 7a+ oblig, 630m) up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuela.
Fisioterapia d'urto (350m, 7c+/8a max, obligatory 7b) the new route put up by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori on the North Face of Cima Dagnola (2195m, Brenta Dolomites) and freed in August by Larcher, Giupponi and Herman Zanetti. The report by Luca Giupponi.
Turkish climbers Zorbey Aktuyun and Evren Kirazlı have carried out the the first repeat of Üç Muz (650m, 8a), the route first climbed in 2005 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan up the East Face of Demirkazik, Ala Daglar, Turkey.
A legendary rock climb as a birthday present: via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route up the South Face of Marmolada. A pretext to remember once again that climbing and alpinism are a never ending evolution between dreams and reality.
Rolando Larcher and Geremia Vergoni recount the birth of Invisibilis (405m, 7c+ max, 7a+ obl.), the new route established over 5 days from 2009 to 2011 up the south face of Marmolada di Ombretta (Dolomites) and freed by Vergoni on 26/06/2012 and repeated by Larcher on 11/09/2012. A route that breaches fantastic rock up an outstanding face and that recounts the evolution and a style of climbing.
Rolando Larcher recounts his first ascent, carried out in mid-June together with Herman Zanetti of L'uovo di Colombo up Monte Cimo in Val d'Adige. A 200m route that breaches the obvious large roofs with two different options: hard 7a+ and soft 7a+.
Video by The Vertical Eye about Valerio Ballardini, one of the most active bolters of the crag Bus de Vela at Trento, Italy.
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established ground-up from on 14/16 and 18 May 2013 and then redpointed on 20/05/2013. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
On 18/04/2013 Rolando Larcher made the first free ascent of Luce di Primo Mattino (435m, max 8a obl. A0), the route established by A. Andreotti, B. Menestrina e M. Furlani in 1991 on Piccolo Dain (Sarca Valley, Italy).
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same place as the original ones.
The climbing meeting "L'acqua e la roccia" will take place on 20 and 21 October 2012 at Roccadoria Monteleone, Sardinia.
Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet recently climbed in the Ala Daglar massif in Turkey where they carried out, amongst others, the first repeat of Red moon and Star put up by Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi.
At the start of May 2012 in Corsica's Bavella massif the Italians Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia made the first ascent of Vecchia Felpa on Punta U Peru (190m, 7c max /RS2/I) while Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori made the firts ascent of Tafunata Galattica up the Contrafforti di Punta A Muvra (185m, 7b+ max 1 section FB7B/RS2/I). The route topo, report, team spirit and the fascinating Bavella by Maurizio Oviglia.
In the Bavella mountain range in Corsica Matteo della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Sintomi strani and have repeated De Rerum Natura, established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia.
From 25 - 27 January 2012 Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent (and first on-sight) of Via Cembridge (550m, 7b+ (6c obligatory) up Cima Margherita, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.
On 5-6 April 2011 the Italians Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori established La banda del buco (175m, 7a+/7b max, 6c+ obbl.) a new route up the North Face of Antro della Perciata on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
On 31/03 and 01/04/2011 Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori completed the first ascent of Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory). The route had previously been started by Larcher, Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia up the NE Face of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007 and 2008.
On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia
On 16 April Maurizio Oviglia and Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of De rerum natura (230m, 7c max, 7a obbl, /RS2+/II) on Punta u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica.
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast repeat of Nayser Brakk (5200m).
On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.
The videos from the WebTV section of the Trento Filmfestival 2009 are online, from Chris Sharma to Patrick Edlinger, Manolo, Kurt Diemberger, Marco Confortola, Fabio Leoni, Rolando Larcher and many, many more.
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
At the end of August 2008 Rolando Larcher completed AlexAnna (700m, 8a+/8b, 7b obl.), a new route up Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia (Marmolada, Dolomites).
On 07/02/2008 Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni and Elio Orlandi reached the summit of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia, via their new route called 'El Gordo, El Flaco y l'Abuelito' (1250m 7a+, A3+).
On 6 May Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of Mezzogiorno di fuoco (270m, 8b max, 7c obligatory) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia. The route had been established by Larcher together with Maurizio Oviglia and Roberto Vigiani in 2006.
From 21 - 26 January 2007 the Italians Elio Orlandi, Michele Cagol, Fabio Leoni and Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of "Osa ma non troppo", a 700m line up the E Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (Torres del Paine, Patagonia). A beautiful route, great company and a fantastic adventure lived to the beat of the over 40’s hardmen.
During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.
On 2 October Rolando Larcher made the first free ascent of "Via Bepi Mazzotti" on the Piccolo Dain (Sarca valley, Italy).
Rolando Larcher celebrates 25 climbing years by climbng 25° 8c at Celva, Trento.
On 23 September Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Andrea Giorda, made the first free ascent of their "La cruna dell'ago" on the SE face Ancesieu (1885m, Vallone di Forzo, Gran Paradiso).
On 14/09 Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani made the first repeat and first on-sight of 'Sur le fil des apparences', first ascended in 2003 by Philippe Mussatto and Rémy Duhoux on the Specchio di Sara Pillar on the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites.
In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m); and “Mezza luna nascente” (270 m, 7c max, 7a+ obl.) on the east face of Parmakkaya (2880m).
New routes in Sardina. Rolando Larcher frees "Il vecchio e il mare" 8b Millennium cave.
On 15-16/02/2004 Rolando Larcher made a solitary winter ascent of Akut on the impervious north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
From 6 - 27 October 2003 the Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Michele Paissan and Maurizio Oviglia established Sul filo della notte (7c+ max; 7b obl) in the Taghia gorge, High Atlas, Morocco.
On 14/09 Rolando Larcher the Italian Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of the "La Grande Onda - Big Wave"
On 12/08/01 Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani redpointed their project of the SW Face of the Marmolada.
On 3/11/2000, Pietro Dal Prà freed 'Hotel Supramonte', the route established by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in the Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia