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Les Pèlerins et la Dame

First ascent: Elio Bonfanti, Rinaldo Roetti 01-07/08/2010
By: Elio Bonfanti
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Aiguille de l'Eveque, Height: 3716m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch.  The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.

GETTING THERE

From Courmayeur drive into Val Ferret and park the car after the houses at Tronchey, directly beneath the Pra Sec glacier.

ACCESS

Walk up the detritus gully to the first rocks on the right, towards the Jacchia bivouac, then follow a vague track and some yellow markers to reach a short in-situ rope. Ascend this to reach the wide cleft at the base of the obvious rock face, at circa 2650m. (1.40 hours).

ROUTE

P1: 6a
P2:
6b
P3:
6a
P4:
6a+
P5:
6c/A0

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. 50m ropes.

GEAR

10 mm bolts. Although not indispensable, a set of camming devices up to Camalot #2 may be found useful.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Summer

DIFFICULTY

6c/A0

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6a+

FACE

Southwest

LENGTH

200m

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