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Mares

First ascent: Alex Busca, Massimo Farina, Erman Tussidor, summer 2002 - 1st repeat. Marco Farina, Matteo Giglio, Giovanna Mongilardi on 16/07/2010
By: Matteo Giglio
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Aiguille de la Brenva, Height: 3278m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.

GETTING THERE

From La Palud, take the Punta Helbronner cable car to the Pavillon.

ACCESS

From the Pavillon follow the panoramic path towards Belvedere della Brenva to coast a small crag with easy slab routes. Begin ascending just beyond this diagonally up meadows and scree to reach the start of the valley which descends from Col d'Entrèves. Walk up this, past the snow field, to the base of the rock face (lightweight crampons useful). Circa 1 hour from the Pavillon.

ROUTE

The route starts at an  twin flak-crack that trends diagonally rightwards. Climb this (camming devices) almost to the end then return left, taking care on some of the loose flakes. Alternatively, ascend just to the left of the first belay but in this case some pegs are needed for protection (not in-situ). The route is protected by stainless steel Kong bolts and should not be confused with the route to the right which has Raumer bolts.

P1: 5c, 0 fix
P2: 7b+, 5 bolts
P3: 7c+, 5 bolts
P4: 6c+, 3 bolts
P5: 7b, 4 bolts
P6: 6a+, 3 bolts
P7: 6a, 1 bolt
P8: 5c, 1 bolt
P9: 5c, 0 fix
P10: 6c+, 2 bolts
P11: 6b+, 2 bolts

DESCENT

Abseil down the route using the excellent belays and skipping belay #3.

GEAR

2 60m ropes, 1 set di friends from #0.5 to #3 Camalot (two #.5 and #.75), 1 set of TCU from #0 to #3 Metolius, 1 set of small wires

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COMMENTS for the route "Mares"

30-07-2010, David Bacci
via molto bella e impegnativa. La consiglio sinceramente a tutti. complimenti ai apritori sopratutto per il traverso che mi ha veramente impegnato. qui un video della salita. http://vimeo.com/13684413
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

ABO, 7c+ max, expo

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c

FACE

East

LENGTH

340m

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