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Oceano Irrazionale

First ascent: Ivan Guerini and Mario Villa; 2/07/1977
By: Andrea Gaddi, taken from the guidebook Masino Bregaglia, Regno del granito
Area: Bernina Alps, Group: Masino - Bregaglia, Peak: Precipizio degli Asteroidi, Height: 1100m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Oceano Irrazionale was first route to introduce the grade VII in the Central Alps. Irrational Ocean is a fantastic line up long vertical cracks and a prodigious traverse right, la "Tromba", to reach the suspended pulpit. Certainly one of the most beautiful in Val di Mello and beyond! Excellent rock, highly popular but not to underestimated as the route needs protecting with trad gear.

GETTING THERE

From Milan take the SS36 towards Sondrio-Tirano. At the village Ardenno (after Morbegno), head up into Val Masino. From here a typical moutnain road leads in 15 minutes to San Martino, the starting point for all climbs in Val di Mello.

DESCENT

Abseil down Anche Per Oggi non si Vola, down the central pillar. To identify the start of the abseil, from the summit locate (by following the faded markers towards Val Livincina) the small rusty metal stake driven into the rock, on the edge of the drip. The first abseil is equipped behind that stake!

GEAR

Nuts and twin set of Friends to #4

NOTES

Belays partially equipped with in-situ gear; they need integrating with nuts and friends. Some in-situ pegs found along the route.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

- Masino Bregaglia, Regno del granito, Volume II, by Andrea Gaddi. Polaris Ed. Sondrio. 2009.
- Solo Granito, Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia. Arrampicate classiche e moderne by Versante Sud

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

April - October

DIFFICULTY

VII

FACE

South

LENGTH

400m

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LINK

www.alpinestudio.it

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