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Giovanni Paolo II

First ascent: Bepi de Francesch & Fiorenzo Vanzetta, 1978
By: Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Piz Ciavazes, Country: Italy

Great route up good rock, established by  B. De Franceschi and F. Vanzetta in 1978 (pegs and pressure bolts). It was rebolted recently in a combined effort first by R. Bernard and G. Bonanno, then by Luigi Trippa & Co. (middle pitches) and finished off by Bernard with E. and P. Bernard and C. Peveri.

GETTING THERE

From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left.

ACCESS

For the car park walk towards Spigolo Abram for 10 minutes. This leads to a section with single pitches. The route starts up the obvious ramp/corner system close to the start of a short via ferrata.

DESCENT

Abseil (70m rope sufficient abseiling from P6) or walk down via the ledge Cengia dei Camosci.

GEAR

13 quickdraws, one 70m rope

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COMMENTS for the route "Giovanni Paolo II"

18-08-2010, maivory
Via buona per giornate incerte. Una lunghezza molto bella, il traverso del quinto tiro (per me assomiglia più ad un 6b che a 6c). Roccia mediocre sul sesto tiro. Carina il resto anche se discontinua. Spittatura ravvicinata. Consiglio di seguire la lunghezza di Non c'è due senza te al sesto tiro.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

6c

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b / S2

FACE

South

LENGTH

300m

PDF

Giovanni Paolo II

LINK

www.albertodegiuli.com

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