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Vento d’estate

First ascent: Max Flaccavento, Giorgio Iurato 03-04/2010. RP 08/05/2010
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Area: Apennines, Group: Sicilian Apennines, Peak: Monte Gallo, Height: 562m, Country: Italy, Region: Sicily

Vento d’estate is a nice and interesting modern route with an alpine feel which takes a series of slabs and corners on the righthandside of the West face of Monte Gallo to reach Pizzo della Sella.

Although the route isn't difficult by modern standards, the climbing is nevertheless demanding and never straightforward which requires a fair degree of preparation.

The bolts need to be integrated with trad gear and although at times some sections can be fairly delicate and run-out, on the whole the route is great fun on excellent rock. The panorama is stupendous in this small Sicilian paradise.

The route is dedicated to the Palerma Mountain Rescue service.

GETTING THERE

From Palermo reach Sferracavallo, the famous seaside resort.

ACCESS

After having parked the car walk along via Barcarello along the seaside to reach the tip of Barcarello and the start of Capo Gallo. Continue along the gravel track into the nature reserve, past the entrance and after circa 100m bear right up the path “Sentiero del Gabbiano”. This leads through a nice forest up hairpin-bends to a small road which cuts across the mountain at half-height beneath the rock faces. Walk along this road to directly beneath the obvious start of the route, then scramble up the steep slope to reach the base (allow 40 minutes for the walk-in).

ROUTE

P1: 6c
P2: 6a
P3: 6b+
P4: 6b
P5: 6a
P6: 5c+
P7: 4a
P8: 6b+
P9: 6a

DESCENT

Possibile abseil down the route. If you abseil, apart from the obligatory traverse on P7, skip belay 6 as marked on the diagram.

GEAR

Two 55/60m ropes, 10 quickdraws, a complete set of friends and small sized nuts, Kevlar threads and helmet.

NOTES

During the hot months and above all in summer this area and the entire Monte Gallo is prone to ticks. Wear long, bright coloured pants to make sure you notice them in time.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

6c

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b+

FACE

West

LENGTH

290m

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