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Inglourious Basterds

First ascent: Reinhold Scherer & Dieter Stöhr 08/2009
By: Planetmountain
Area: North Tyrol Limestone Alps, Group: Karwendelgebirge, Peak: Speckkar, Country: Austria, Region: Tyrol

Finest quality crack and slab climbing up the obvious crack system circa 15m to the left of the route Buhldurchschlag. Inglourious Basterds alternates fine cracks with nice face climbing and the steeply overhanging third pitch contains the crux, a single hard move with a fist jam, that can only be tricked with a Camalot #1.  Success tastes even better with a beer at the Hallerangerhaus!

GETTING THERE

From Innsbruck drive to Hall in Tirol.

ACCESS

Two options.
A. Drive through the Halltall (4€ toll) and over Lafatscher Joch towards the Hallerangerhaus, circa 2 hours. Fit cyclists can cycle to just beneath the col. This doesn't reduce the walk-in much, but during the (very demanding) descent one saves 45 minutes.
B. Cycle from Scharnitz (4€ parking) over the Hinterautal, past the Kastenalm to the Hallerangerhaus. Most push their bikes along the steep ascent to the Kastenalm. Although this approach is longer (at least 2.5 hours), the return is simple and takes circa 45 - 60 minutes.
The Speckkar can be seen south of the Hallerangerhaus mountain hut and is reached in circa 15 minutes.

Start 3m to the left of the plaque. 

ROUTE

P1: 4- (40m)
P2: 6a+ (35m)
P3: 7a (30m)
P4: 6a+ (35m)
P5: 6c+ (35m)
P6: 6b (35m)
P7: 5c+ (30m)

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. Please do not remove the abseil carabiners. Use the two abseil stances from the overhang straight down then slightly northwards; 35m abseils, or finish classically up left to the Schnittelwänden. beware of large loose block to the left of the 6th belay.

GEAR

11 quickdraws, either a Camalot #1 or Friend# 3, 70m single rope for the abseil

NOTES

No pegs in the first pitch.
Take care not to dislodge rocks when climbing or abseiling, as hikers walk directly beneath the route.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

The face receives the sun from 11:30 onwards, meaning it can be climbed even in late autumn

DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

West

LENGTH

240m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.kletterzentrum-tivoli.at

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